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16x7 Method MR502 Rally Wheels on 2021 CX-30 Turbo

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33K views 39 replies 12 participants last post by  AnyRoadCX30  
#1 · (Edited)
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UPDATE: 02/02/2022, Wheel Project Completed. This thread covers exploring 16" wheel fitment, tire selection and figuring out a custom center cap solution. Please read below for all the details.

RESOURCES:
Wheels: Method MR502 Rally Wheel in 16x7 et30
Tires: Toyo Open Country AT III 215/70R16
Alt Manufacturing Mazda to Method Center Cap Adapters: Mazda CX-30 Method MR502 Center Cap Adapter – Alt. Manufacturing

Original post begins here...


I wanted to swap to all-terrain tires on my 2021 CX-30 Turbo and was determined to run 16" wheels. The limited information out there was a bit discouraging, so I had to find out for myself before giving up on 16s. I wanted to share my personal findings.

I was looking at rally style wheels, then narrowed my research down to the Method MR502 Rally in 16x7 et30. My hopes grew when I learned that they were designed to accommodate STI 4-piston Brembos. Why is that relevant? Using only the finest, lab-calibrated Pittsburgh measuring tape and Christmas Light box, I measured the distance between the center of rear hub to edge of caliper on my CX-30 Turbo and got about 7-3/8". The Brembos, that the Methods are said to clear, actually measure 7-1/2" from center of hub to the edge of caliper (source: Brembo's official drawing). That information as well as the barrel design of the Methods made me feel comfortable enough to order them up.

They fit.... but barely. And I mean, barely. Now the clearance may not be enough for everyone, but Brembo themselves require a 3mm minimum clearance all around, and it looks to be just over that. And without further ado, some pictures with captions.

Unboxing. Ooh La La.


Precision measuring tools in action.


This is gonna be close.


OMG, it's in. I mean, it's on... The hub bore is 67.1mm (a dead on match for the CX-30, naturally hub-centric without the use of rings)


Took out a handy ISO certified we-don't-leave-them-on-the-counter-anymore Home Depot series paint stirring stick for minimum clearance requirements. It's a touch over 1/8", which is over 3mm.


The stick fits... barely. (cast caliper ears)


Continued in next post...
 
#2 · (Edited)
Felt my way around the back of the rim and found a somewhat hidden obstruction! A connector plug for the electronic parking brake. This felt awfully close to the back edge of the rim. The connector is toward the front of the car. It's a rather soft rubber, but will it clear?


The stick fits! (view is zoomed in looking through the wheel spokes, head on)


And this is how goofy your CX-30 Turbo can look showcasing a 16" wheel without tire against the stock 18" wheel/tire package.
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The offset should work out nicely once tires are on.
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Will update thread once tires and mud flaps are on. Stay tuned.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Excellent. I ordered Konig Backbone 16" (40mm offset) wheels but my CX-30 Turbo order has yet to arrive. I've been waiting for someone to officially confirm a set of 16" wheels on a Turbo. I've been somewhat confident based on Tire Rack results that bring up 2 models that fit:

MSW Type 25 (45mm offset)
ENKEI Performance PDC (38mm offset)
That's exactly where my research began. I'd also seen a couple folks bolt on 16" steelies successfully, but I wasn't able to confirm if they were Turbo models, or even North American versions.

What makes matters more inconvenient is that the automotive lookup plug-ins that these websites use don't even have the 21 CX-30 Turbo as an optional selection. Heck, even KBB can't properly value our cars because it's not in their database... yet.

After my experience, I believe it comes down to a combination of barrel design and offset. A lower offset gives a higher chance the caliper will be positioned in the largest diameter of the barrel (on most wheels). But too low of an offset though and you run a higher chance of rubbing, thanks to our very modest fender liners.

The trouble with barrel design is that all wheels have a cinch down at the barrel (done for strength/rigidity). Some barrels taper down gradually at an angle as they get closer to the face of the wheel. Fortunately for me, the Method MR502s barrel runs pretty paralleI and then cinches down right along the same plane where the hub mounting surface is, giving the brakes the absolute most diameter they can for this size of wheel. See below with the problem areas circled.


Now this is the MSW Type 25, which Tire Rack claims to fit. Mind you, mine cleared by just over 3mm and this wheel mounts 15mm closer to the face than mine... It's very hard to believe that this tapered barrel design will clear. The blue markings indicate the diameter drop off. If someone actually has this wheel bolted to a Turbo, I'll be surprised.


Here is an image I found of the Konig Backbone. I can't confirm if the image actually represents the barrel of a 16x7 et40, but that design looks VERY cinched and starts quite far back. Just look at the amount of diameter drop on the barrel.


I truly hope for your sake that they work, so you can avoid any headaches and costs of return. But following the same train of logic that gave me good chances with the Methods, I hate to say that it looks very unlikely to clear. Crossing my fingers for you!

Btw, what kind of tires do you plan to run?
 
#7 ·
Thank you!

Just installed some Rok Blokz mud flaps in preparation for the new set. They help ruggedize the cladding a bit, but simultaneously make the stock wheel/tire package look even more out of place. Hopefully, the Methods with the AT3s that I have on order will complete the look nicely and give some much needed purpose to the body cladding.

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#11 ·
I pulled the trigger on the return. I'm not much of a risk taker so the 16" tires needed to be returned. I spoke to Discount Tire and they agreed since the 2.5L Turbo isn't listed as a trim in the system. Instead I went with Motegi MR131 TRAKLITE 17x7 45mm and stayed with Michelin CrossClimate 2s in 215/65/17. This increases the overall diameter (711mm or 28") by about 1" compared to the 215/65/16 (686mm or 27") that I had planned on with the 16" Konigs. From everything I've seen this is a safe increase in diameter, filling a bit more wheel gap and increasing ground clearance over stock by 8.5mm or 0.33". Thanks @v24design for sharing your work and opinion, likely saved me a future headache.
 
#12 ·
Oh how funny! The MR131 in 17x7 were my backup selection if these Methods didn't work. The style kind of toes the line between rally cross and roadsports... They're also quite light... I love those wheels. Please post them up once you've got them!

Here are a few quick shots of the Methods mounted up with the Open Country AT3s... Some fitment details regarding the center caps to follow in my next post!

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#13 · (Edited)
Wow, I like that look alot. Those tires look meaty. Reminds me of the KO2s I had on my Wrangler. What size are those Toyos?

I just checked with my salesman, he is now telling me it's waiting to be built. 4 weeks ago, it was said to be in production? 🤷🏻‍♂️. I'll take pics when they're on, hopefully before the season is over? Currently driving a moped like Lloyd Christmas from Dumb and Dumber isn't much fun in the winter.

It was a toss up between the MR131 and the Enkei RPF1. I like the satin finish, 5 spoke design and lower price on the MR131 for a winter wheel.

In the meantime, I also put in an order for a bucket list set of summer wheels too. Lead on those is 6 months minimum so no better time to order than now.
 
#14 ·
Wow, I like that look alot. Those tires look meaty. Reminds me of the KO2s I had on my Wrangler. What size are those Toyos?

I just checked with my salesman, he is now telling me it's waiting to be built. 4 weeks ago, it was said to be in production? 🤷🏻‍♂️. I'll take pics when they're on, hopefully before the season is over? Currently driving a moped like Lloyd Christmas from Dumb and Dumber isn't much fun in the winter.

It was a toss up between the MR131 and the Enkei RPF1. I like the satin finish, 5 spoke design and lower price on the MR131 for a winter wheel.

In the meantime, I also put in an order for a bucket list set of summer wheels too. Lead on those is 6 months minimum so no better time to order than now.
Thanks! They’re 215/70r16. So, roughly half an inch larger in OD. I always found the body cladding to look so out of place on the CX-30 and eventually realized the biggest reason was the contrast of the low profile rubber (esp on 18” models). I think the taller sidewall really removes the visual weight off the cladding and it looks more intentional and purposeful (hence the mudflaps). I’m very pleased with the outcome.

I laughed a bit too hard at the Lloyd comment. That’s some crazy lead times. We’ve been fortunate as my CX-30 was on the lot in August when I bought it, and we just bought a CX-5 for the wife late November and that was already on the water. Hers arrived at the dealer this morning. Granted neither of these were special orders - local dealers haven’t been taking any special orders for a few months now.

Alright already, out with the bucket list wheels! Volks? Works?
 
#18 ·
WOW! Your CX-30 looks bad ass! I really like what you did and appreciate the risks that you took to go with this setup. I own a Select, which believe or not got me on the high end of my budget, so I won't be switching wheels anytime soon. I do wonder and of course I understand that with 18" wheels, there is less space for "taller" tires. Still, I'm wondering if anyone knows what the reasonable limit is for a taller tire for when the time comes to change tires.

Am I making sense? Basically adding taller tires to the factory 18" wheels. Of course the results will be far from dramatic, but any additional clearance that I can get, plus having the car look a little more aggressive would be nice. I live in Miami, so All Wheel Drive was never an option since it never snows down here. It does rain a lot, but it is nothing that the Mazda can't handle.

Thanks to all of you who so graciously share with us less mechanically inclined your experiences in customizing your CX-30.

Frank G
 
#19 ·
...I'm wondering if anyone knows what the reasonable limit is for a taller tire for when the time comes to change tires.
I made a little handy dandy chart with different possible wheel and tire combinations that would theoretically fit, staying between 215-235 widths. Maybe you can find it helpful. The slight rub at full lock for 235/60/18 is from a CX-30 owner who is running that tire size. This doesn't mean that diameters below 739mm won't rub, it simply means that his do indeed rub on the wheel wells at full lock (the steering wheel turned all the way to one side or the other). I read another user using 235/55/18 and the owner has pictures showing an estimated 1/4" of clearance at full lock. Hope this helps.

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#20 ·
I'm now convinced that the taller sidewalls are the key to balancing out the cladding. Filling the gap with bigger tires certainly helps, but I think sidewalls are the biggest thing.

Seeing how close the tolerance is on 16" wheels, I think my rim choices might be too limited, so I'll likely go with 17" wheels.

What I would like to know is how tall of sidewalls I can get on 17" wheels... especially if I go with 225 or even 215. 235/65/17 (29.02") seems like it would likely rub on full lock for the same reason 235/60/18 (29.09") does. But using thinner tires should, I would think, alleviate that too some degree...

...or am I mistaken?
 
#21 ·
My gut tells me 215/70/17 won't rub. The thinner width helps at full lock. The downside is, 215/70/17 has a very limited selection of tires in that size. I actually cancelled my Motegi MR131 17x7 order and changed to the Enkei RPF1 17x7. I was a little concerned with the load rating on the Motegis, it was right at the Turbo's limit up front. RPF1 has a higher load rating and is lighter, but more expensive. Since these will be my winter wheels, I considered the Blizzak DM-V2 as they come in 215/70/17. However, at 30 lb each, that's simply too much added unsprung weight. Going with the Crossclimate2, a more versatile all-season, in 215/65/17 is 25.42 lb, coupled with the RPF1 wheel at 14.9 lb, saves 8.48 lb of unsprung weight from the stock 18s. The side wall height difference from 65 to 70 is 0.43". Small deduction in aethestics with the 65, but better retention in handling and braking with less weight.

I did some more data collection with regards to the 235/60/18 dilemma today. The owner says it barely rubs, so I'm digging deeper, as I'd like to run 235/55/19 on my summer setup. More to come on that tomorrow.
 
#24 ·
30" curved LED light bar installed. Plastidipped the chrome grill surround while I had it all apart. More details to follow...
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Had some clearance issues with the supplied Method center cap assemblies (and found the brushed metal look a little tacky). Found an enthusiast run business that specializes in neat 3D printed products and asked him for a clean solution to integrate my factory Mazda center caps. More details to follow...
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#27 ·
The final challenge of fitting these Methods onto the CX-30 was that the included center caps do NOT fit the rear. But rather than just making them work, I took a different approach and couldn't be happier.

The Problem?

The rear axle shaft of the CX-30 protrudes out of the wheel just enough to prevent the center cap from sitting flush against the wheel. If I recall correctly, the amount protruding was between 1/16" - 1/8". Here's a shot of the Method center caps and shot of a card sitting FLAT against the wheel surface...
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Now if you're dead set on running the Method center caps, no problem... You can make spacers out of a sheet of rubber or some type of plastic and sandwich it between the center cap and the mounting surface of the wheel. But in my opinion, these included center caps would have looked more at home on a truck than a smooth bodied crossover... I wanted the center cap to be black, and if possible, somehow reutilize the Mazda logo for a cleaner OE+ look.

The Solution!

I found a small business called Alternative Manufacturing, started by a couple of enthusiasts that specialize in clever 3D printed parts... They already had similar center caps designed to adapt Subaru caps onto the same Method wheels. I contacted them using their form on the website and received a call the same day. I spoke with Evan and they were more than happy to help accommodate anything I needed...

My requirements were simple. I wanted the units to accept the OEM Mazda center cap and fit the Method wheel while clearing the rear axle shaft. As for the design details, I left that up to Evan, and they turned out perfect.

Despite it being right in the middle of the holidays, within a week, I had in my hands these very neat 3D printed center caps! I was so impressed by the final product and actually like the 3D printing artifacts/straiations... or whatever you'd call the little ridges. More importantly, they cleared the rear axle shaft, the holes sat perfectly in alignment to the wheel, and my factory center caps snapped in place with such tight and confident clearances, that I know they're not going anywhere.

If anyone is interested in a set of these for their Methods, the link is here: Mazda CX-30 Method MR502 Center Cap Adapter – Alt. Manufacturing

Otherwise, if you need any custom solutions that can be accomplished with 3D printing (yes, even as simple as some spacers for the Method caps), I cannot recommend Alternative Manufacturing highly enough! Their work and communication is professional, quick, thorough and detailed. And for the price? No brainer.

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#35 ·
Thanks to v24design I pulled the trigger on the MR 502 wheels and couldn't be happier. I had originally purchased the same size as him 16x7 +30 but unfortunately after three months of them being on backorder I changed to the +15 offset with 215/70 tires. To my surprise I have not experienced any rub and thanks to the offset I didn't have to use the aftermarket center caps. Yes there is definitely some wheel poke, but I don't really care. It now corners like a dream.
 

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