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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I don’t think removing the CX-30's front bumper is particularly difficult but that’s just me. To remove the entire front bumper, you'll start by removing the large fiber aero panel under the engine first. Then the smaller plastic aero panel in front of that under the radiator. Then a bunch of assorted push-pins and T-30 Torx bolts all around. I counted 80 fasteners total.

Release the black plastic trim at the front of each wheel well from the well liner by removing the four (4) push-pins on the wheel well liner in front of each tire. Note that three(3) of the four(4) push-pins have a tiny flush head. Their use is very counter-intuitive; they release by pushing the head IN. Once out, you reset the pin by pushing the pin all the way out. To reinstall, you'll just push the head into the middle, flush position. Again, each little pin has three positions; Ready (out), Engaged (flush), and Released (in). They're ingeniously simple but if you've never seen one before you might struggle. MOST of the push-pins used throughout are the normal kind where the head just pops up a little and you can remove the push-pin.

The front-most wheel trim pieces have a lip which goes UNDER the rear half of each wheel arch trim piece. Those larger (rearward) trim pieces have two(2) push pins in the top of each wheel well holding the their most forward edge flush to the fender. If you remove those two(2) push-pins, you can lift the rearward trim piece up so the lip on the forward piece can be easily pulled from underneath. To reassemble, the bumper and black plastic trim pieces together get press-fit in against the front fender. Then the rear black plastic trim piece is snugged up over the forward trim by re-inserting the plastic push-pins in the top of the wheel liner

The rear-most portion of the front bumper together with the wheel trim pops out from the front fender on each side just by yanking on it. (On each side, the bumper is only pressed into a squeeze fit in four (4) places along the panel edge; two (2) on the color bumper and two (2) on the black plastic trim piece.)

The biggest headache removing the bumper is the wire stay clips for the wiring (radar unit and turn-signals). They're meant to be installed easily but they're not positioned to be easily released from behind using needle-nose pliers. I found that a forked panel removal tool is the best way to slide-in under the clip and compress the two locking pins holding each wire stay clip in it's hole. The large, gray turn-signal connectors release by pushing a hard-to-feel button on the bottom of each connector.

Note: My photo shows the front wheel trim removed but the bumper still on the car. You shouldn't do this unless absolutely necessary. The forward part of the wheel well trim is screwed onto the front bumper from behind. Don’t try to remove these pieces separately, just leave them attached to the front bumper as you remove the bumper from the car. (It IS physically possible to get a stubby screwdriver in behind the front bumper through each wheel well but the windshield washer fluid reservoir on the right side makes access to one of the three(3) mounting screws difficult.)

Note: If you're wondering, the chrome grill trim is two (plastic) pieces held tightly together with a special clip. Together, the two grill trim pieces are held in place by a total of ten(10) phillips-head screws. Immediately behind each chrome trim piece is a tight-fitting black plastic sleeve filling the space between the chrome trim and each headlight. If you're thinking about vinyl-wrapping the chrome grill trim ON the car - don't. The complex shape is difficult enough to work with on a table and the tight-fitting black plastic sleeve behind each chrome piece will make tucking your edges and corners nearly impossible. Daunting as it might seem, just removing the entire front bumper is worth the effort vs the hassle of working with everything left in place.

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