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2021 Mazda CX-30 Turbo Premium Plus, Deep Crystal Blue Mica
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
My CX-30 GT slams on the brakes in reverse with bikes mounted to the hitch.... SBS-R is the culprit but must be disabled by going into the menu each time the vehicle is started.
How do you temporarily disable the SBS-R? PLEASE. When I go on bike rides, I pull out of the garage and back up to it before I put on the bike rack, so I can drive forward to leave my house. When I get to the start of the ride I try to park where I can pull forward to exit, instead of having to back up at 1 MPH (2 kph in Europe). Thanks.
 

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20 CX-30 GT DCBlue w/Gyeon Syncro Ceramic Coat + PPF
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How do you temporarily disable the SBS-R? PLEASE. When I go on bike rides, I pull out of the garage and back up to it before I put on the bike rack, so I can drive forward to leave my house. When I get to the start of the ride I try to park where I can pull forward to exit, instead of having to back up at 1 MPH (2 kph in Europe). Thanks.
You have to disable I-Activ safety systems by holding the button on the left of the steering wheel with the little car logo that is circled, then go into vehicle settings - collision avoidance and uncheck SBS-R... it is a Royal pain in the ass .
 

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2021 Mazda CX-30 Turbo Premium Plus, Deep Crystal Blue Mica
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
You have to disable I-Activ safety systems by holding the button on the left of the steering wheel with the little car logo that is circled, then go into vehicle settings - collision avoidance and uncheck SBS-R... it is a Royal pain in the ass .
Thank you, Drewmtb29! I presume it resets itself when I shut off the engine, forcing me to do it again after the bike ride (unless I can pull forward to exit).
It's still better than a roof rack.
 

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20 CX-30 GT DCBlue w/Gyeon Syncro Ceramic Coat + PPF
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Thank you, Drewmtb29! I presume it resets itself when I shut off the engine, forcing me to do it again after the bike ride (unless I can pull forward to exit).
It's still better than a roof rack.
That is correct, annoyingly.
 

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2020 Mazda CX-30 Revolution Skyactive X, AWD, AT, Towbar, Soul Red Crystal
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My CX-30 GT slams on the brakes in reverse with bikes mounted to the hitch.... SBS-R is the culprit but must be disabled by going into the menu each time the vehicle is started.
Mine with the Mazda original cable it disables all the rear sensor when the bike rack is connected to the plug. It is also shown in the messages in the center console that the sensors are disabled
 

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2020 CX-30 Skyactiv-X MHEV GT Sport Tech
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677 Posts
There's another thread on this here

Worth cross-referencing it so that the reasons for the alarms and car behaviour are understood.
 

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2021 CX-30 AWD T
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Hi all.

I got the 2” ECOHITCH which is listed as class 3 on etrailer but I’m pretty sure it’s only about class 2. I got curt harness C86CR. Harness is plug and play and no splicing is required. Using a 4-pin tester checked signals brakes and lights. All is working.

Running the wiring under the sill plates and pushing through front firewall to access the battery took about 20 minutes. Hitch install about 30-40 minutes. Might be more, could be less, but having it up on a hoist was key to install. The holes did not need to be enlarged and hitch lined up great.

The only caveat is that the install is almost perfect, but requires shaving down some of the exhaust bracket so the hitch doesn’t tap against the exhaust, making a somewhat irritating wobbling sound at low speed.

Damage was $459 US or $558 Canadian all in from etrailer.com No extra import or taxes. Took about a week to come in.

My friend didn’t charge me labour but someone might charge around $100-200 for install of hitch and harness.
 

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2021 Mazda CX-30 Premium
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Yesterday I installed Curt Model 11599 on my 2021 CX-30 Premium (non-turbo). I'm tool savvy but had never installed a hitch before. I completed the job in my driveway in about an hour without any lifting of the car. It was not necessary to remove the trim panel discussed in this thread.

The instructions from Curt were spot on. Enlarging the frame holes to pass the carriage bolts through was a bit awkward (I used a rotary tool), but the hitch fit between the trim panel and the muffler quite nicely. Overall it was a very tidy installation and a satisfying Saturday afternoon chore. View attachment 1582
Looks good. I had the same one installed on my Premium trim the same week I got the car. Bought a Bully Step and a Hitch Lock as well.
 

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2021 CX-30 AWD T
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Did various towings since my install.

I can safely say that despite Mazda Canada saying not to tow, that this car tows great and smoothly. I also towed a motorcycle trailer with a 350 lb bike on it totalling 1,150 lbs. I would say that a 2,000 lb tow capacity with this motor according to google is accurate. That being said, personally I wouldn’t go over 1,500 lbs.

Mostly cruised at 110 km/h but did 120 at times for passing. Handled it well!
 

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2020 CX-30 Premium 2.5
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Hi all.

I got the 2” ECOHITCH which is listed as class 3 on etrailer but I’m pretty sure it’s only about class 2. I got curt harness C86CR. Harness is plug and play and no splicing is required. Using a 4-pin tester checked signals brakes and lights. All is working.

Running the wiring under the sill plates and pushing through front firewall to access the battery took about 20 minutes. Hitch install about 30-40 minutes. Might be more, could be less, but having it up on a hoist was key to install. The holes did not need to be enlarged and hitch lined up great.

The only caveat is that the install is almost perfect, but requires shaving down some of the exhaust bracket so the hitch doesn’t tap against the exhaust, making a somewhat irritating wobbling sound at low speed.

Damage was $459 US or $558 Canadian all in from etrailer.com No extra import or taxes. Took about a week to come in.

My friend didn’t charge me labour but someone might charge around $100-200 for install of hitch and harness.

Where did you pass it through the firewall? I had a lot of trouble with this and have it jerry-rigged at the moment for the wiring. Curt hitch install went great though, pulls 1500lbs no problem! Just gotta keep an eye on the tongue weight.
 

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2021 Mazda CX-30 Turbo premium
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Did various towings since my install.

I can safely say that despite Mazda Canada saying not to tow, that this car tows great and smoothly. I also towed a motorcycle trailer with a 350 lb bike on it totalling 1,150 lbs. I would say that a 2,000 lb tow capacity with this motor according to google is accurate. That being said, personally I wouldn’t go over 1,500 lbs.

Mostly cruised at 110 km/h but did 120 at times for passing. Handled it well!
Hi all, gotta do my first post sometime, registered today after gaining much knowledge from "youse guys" (as we say in the Chicago area) about this car we just took delivery of, a '21 Turbo Premium,. I was starting to regret ordering this car, which we bought fully intending to tow with, and I knew from the first that towing is not supported by Mazda, at least in my part of the planet, but we did it anyway. At 71, this is the largest, fanciest car I've ever owned, and even being a pretty decent mechanic, KNOWING this could tow our teardrop camper, its scarier when its YOUR $34k!!

What made me so confident? I sold cars and trucks for a living for 30 years, and whenever a new model debuted, we would be obligated to attend a "Ride and Drive" event. When the first gen Subaru Outback was the subject of the day, in a lecture we were being told about it's 1000 pound towing rating, when the "teacher" felt it necessary to interject that "in Europe the rating is 3000 pounds". Since "inquiring minds want to know" my hand shot up to, of course, ask why, expecting to be told of some interesting mechanical differences. His reply??: LESS LAWYERS IN EUROPE !!!!!

jchc's post put me back on the mostly confident side. Why "mostly", this is the first vehicle I've ever owned (other than vans or van-based campers that pulled my race cars) with an automatic transmission, about which I know very little, mechanically, My 2000 Honda Prelude has towed our camper from Savannah to Phoenix to Lake Superior, I'm pretty sure (hope, hope) this Turbo, with 25% more HP, much more clearance in the rear wheel wells, and way more torque will do fine. Shame on Mazda, says me, for supporting towing in Europe and Australia, but not here. I'm just sayin....
 

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Where did you pass it through the firewall? I had a lot of trouble with this and have it jerry-rigged at the moment for the wiring. Curt hitch install went great though, pulls 1500lbs no problem! Just gotta keep an eye on the tongue weight.
Please respond soon, for me, too. I'll be putting the Curt hitch on tomorrow. When I put my last one on the above mentioned Prelude, I was surprised how hard it was to find a spot underneath the car, even a car from 20 years ago. OH, and a tip I hope I'm correct in passing on: I found on that wiring kit (also Curt) that it operated well, but burned out (or some such thing) after about seven years. I had hooked the wire right to the negative battery terminal, so I guess the unit was "seeing current" whenever driving, not just the small percentage of time I was towing. On the replacement, I put a ring tongue terminal on the wire and tucked it into the battery liner box, only slipping it on the end of the terminal bolt, and adding a 2nd nut when preparing for a trip.
 

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2021 CX-30 AWD T
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Hi there sorry for the delay. Behind the steering wheel in the engine area is a rubber like grommet. It’s really big and a bunch of electrical is coming through it. If you have a super long screwdriver, wrap it with electrical tape and tape the wire to it and stick it through. We had to remove the battery in order to bring it through all the way.

I’ll update with a picture when I can take one.
 

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Thanks, I did get under the dash, I'm pretty sure I saw that. First of all I'm old, and gun shy about being under the dash from trying to work out a graunching noise from the pivot of the clutch pedal in my '08 CivicSi. Can't hardly get in, if I don't have the right tool have to kill myself getting out, if I do have, can never reach it, can never get my old-fashioned trouble light aimed where I want, biggest problem is vision-related (to be solved soon, I hope), black on black in low light...waaaah...waaaaah. Then I looked at the firewall side.. but never thought about removing the battery.,,.may have seen that puppy then, looked awfully crowded. And, I didn't know if you just wedged that wire under the door sills with just friction with the carpet keeping it neat, wasn't brave enough to rip them off, never did that in fifty years of working on cars. The "Craaack" made by the "skid plate" (as Curt calls it) in the trunk area scared me, I thought I broke it!! My wife is pissed that I'm wielding my do it yourself nature on HER NEW FANCY CAR.

Soooo, I took the bottom route, passing the wire under the skid plate, under the right side panels, and went thru the large grommet in the forward right side of the "trunk" area, using a pointed awl, taped the stripped end of the wire, and got it though. Hole was so tight it make a perfect seal Looked like you could just stick it in with the existing bundle, but its tightly banded on the other side. Someone earlier was daunted by all of the the panels under the car, but they were all secured with nylon nuts (only finger-tight!) or the same plastic pins used for the trunk trim. Came up near the ABS unit, and zip tied it with existing holes in the leading edge of the plastic trim the rear edge of the hood snuggles into . But, now I'll have to find some hi-temp insulation and perhaps foil wrap as I'm about four inches from the turbo. (My first car with a turbo, for you youngsters, was 1965!) Did it all without jacking up the car, even with my big head. Guess I've always had economy sedans and sports cars, and, my wife rankled badly when I referred to the new CX-30 as "the bus".

I like your way better, but its in, and works. OH--before I forget, there is an error in the Curt installation instructions, although I thought they were very good. They start you working on the driver's side, and after you get the proper connector apart, they say to run the side of the kit "with the yellow wire" and insert its two plugs in between, great. But then you take to the other side, with the green wire under the "skid plate" to the passenger side to do the same thing. Then you're told to put the kit connectors "with the yellow wire" in between the Mazda connector--fine-- but there is no yellow wire, they inadvertently copied the paragraph from the driver's side section. Gave me pause for a little bit. The newbies out there might think they messed up. I called them today, they agreed and will correct.
 

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Well, after my (always) wordy contributions, I should post the results! Stupendously wonderful! I feel silly after all the worrying I did. First I misunderstood one post here about the wiring kit, talking about all kinds of splicing with tiny gauge wires, missing the fact that the proper CX-30 specific kit was out of stock when he needed it, and he had to go the hard way. With the custom kit, it was a breeze. I did, btw, enclose my wire run near the turbo in a piece of 3-sidede aluminum channel, wrapped in home insulation, wrapped in some thick aluminum tape (Oh, an edit for my prior post: obviously I meant the positive terminal). The only difficulty with the hitch installation was not having the proper tool to enlarge that hole, I can tell you that sawing with a large drill bit was a waste of time. While talking to Curt about the instructions (above), the guy said he did his with chain saw sharpening files. Having just bought some, I brightened up, but good luck with that method. Finally I just went over the parts store and got an $8 set of rotary grinding stones. Be aware, you only have to enlarge the holes side to side, not front to rear. There was talk in other threads here about having to mess with a bracket, which I saw, that worried me. Instead I found I had to cut a notch in the black bumper plastic, with the hitch already loosely in place. So as to not have to take it all down, I drilled many little holes along the needed lines, then sawed my way through them. The rest was a snap. Sorry my posts are long, but I figure if those that follow here researching, with enough details, will relax if they're uneasy about attempting the install.

We tow what the manufacturer calls a 5x8 teardrop camper, around 800 pounds, of course loaded with various tents, canopies, coolers, full kitchen gear, et. al. Keeping all possible heavy stuff at the back of the cabin, over the axle, I carefully measured tongue weight at an eye popping 242 pounds (maybe now I an convince the wife we just CAN'T bring any more stuff!!! The towing was perfect, I was dumbfounded after worrying about how to disable all of the silly "safety features" (2021 Turbo Premium) that would be conflicted, I found NO issues. With our trailer being slightly more narrow than the car, only on a slight curve did the "blind zone warning" flash for a second in the mirror, then go off. I could live with that, perhaps the longish tongue and the storage box platform put the 5x8 body far enough back so I didn't even have to turn off anything with that Intelligent feature button on the far left. After several months since deciding on this vehicle, I can finally exhale. Thanks for all of your knowledge. All is good, Over, and, Out.
 

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2021 Mazda MX-30 Turbo
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(My first car with a turbo, for you youngsters, was 1965!)

You had a Corvair Monza!
2425
 

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Right, well, close you are, sir! Mine was that metallic peanut butter color. The turbo existed in the first generation, under the Monza trim level. (1960-1964). The 2nd Gen. (1965-1969) had either 4x1 barrel carbs or the 180 hp turbo in the "Corsa"' trim level, which you do picture here. See the script below the gas filler door, and the emblem low down on the quarter panel near the rear wheel. If we could see the rear panel, it would be a light metallic silver. Marina Blue looks very slick!
 

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Me, again, probably for last time unless answering questions. I only wrote so much to hopefully give insights to those that come later, all in one place, of one guy's experience

I indicated everything went perfect, but forgot that I was hearing a clunking over bad bumps, bridge entry and exit strips, etc. I wondered if perhaps while having the rubber hanging bands off the muffler (which I supported with a jack throughout) to mount the hitch, I may have unwittingly also dislodged a hanger nearer nearer the middle of the car-- but there are none. Then I found the metal to metal contact between an angular muffler bracket and the angular bracket of the hitch, on the driver's side. Remembering that the instructions said to pull the mounting pads (with the bolts) fully forward in the holes, I wondered if perhaps I might not have done this properly, and loosened everything back up, an did get some movement towards the rear of the Mazda. After tightening everything back up, I was able to see some daylight between the said brackets (say, 3/16") and was hopeful. A test ride, looking for bumps, soon had me frowning, as when the muffler settled down on it's hanging bands, my clunking was back. Had to take all 4 bands off again and lower that gigantic muffler to gain access, figuring to effect some sort of notch in the edge of the way over-engineered. bracket on the muffler. The puny rotary stones I used to enlarge the frame rail holes, had worse trouble hogging out that metal in the bracket. A Saws-All with a fine blade for cutting metal cut me a nice "V".in the area of contact, and sawing with a drill bit where the two cuts met rounded the v so as to avoid stress cracking. Take a look at this area before counting your job done. Now I can stick a pencil through the gap I made. Clunkage, gone. Bye.
 
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