I hard wired my radar detector and found that all the fuses appear to be constant, none of the circuits turn off with the car. So must remember to turn it on and off. I had a dash cam but not going to install unless I can find an easy fix. Cheers
In my base trim I'm not sure that I have power on the rear view mirror.I took power from the rear view mirror. Is ACC controlled and there are adaptors that are plug and play, are concealed and give you an usb (5v) connector (Dash Cam Install Easy as 1..2..3..). If you need 12v, can be done by modifying the connector (Just getting the power from 12v and ignoring the 5v circuit), or just go to the mirror harness and take power from 12v wire.
I wanted to use hardware kit. We know that USB power ON when you enter the car and OFF when you leave. So I wanted to connect hardware kit to ground near fuse box (-), use any fuse for + and use USB (+) as a trigger for ACC wire. The only one question if it is enough 5V that hardware kit "understand" that ACC is on.Not sure I fully follow. Where in the interior fuse box are you planning on drawing power from ? All the interior fuses are always live so if you draw from it directly you’ll kill your battery pretty quickly when using parking mode on the camera. You can tap into the ecu harness for 5v on acc, tapping the same cable as a wireless charger would tap (instruction in previous comments) but if you need 12v on acc, then you’ll need a relay set up. I would also use an inline fuse between the car and the usb. This would prevent any surges damaging your camera.
My dashcam turn off in 2 min after switching off the engine, when it is connecting through USB, and never turn on by itself because I didn't notice any other videos.The minimum for a trigger signal is 3V so you should be good on that.
There is a 20 min delay. The usb ports in the car stay on for 20 mins after the car turns off, and periodically they turn on and off. This can drain the battery over time, especially if you’re only doing short drives.