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I was able to drive our CX-30 today (05/22/24) in both stop & go city traffic and freeway speeds (about 45 minutes total combined). From the time I started the engine, I kept it out of Sport mode, in "D", and didn't notice anything unusual. The entire time I drove everything was smooth. Trust me I would notice if we experienced some of what you guys have described. We have a build date of 04/2023.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
A different build date than ours, and yours operates smoothly. Hmmmm....
Let's have more folks report their build date and operation condition and see if their is any tendency to note.
 
Hi! I have a 2023 US Preferred trim model, as to the build date I'm not sure, I need to check, but when I first got the car I could feel some small tugs, or phantom braking which I thought was the automatic emergency braking function acting up or the brake system doing an airgap learn (I'm a chassis controls engineer), then, I installed a corksport axle-back exhaust (sounds great btw), and I could definitely feel the vibrations and more importantly, hear the exhaust tone change on when CD came on, I live in SE Michigan so with the very flat roads, it comes on all the time, I haven't tried resetting the transmission learns I might need to do that next.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Welcome to the forum.It looks like you might be observing and feeling the activation of the CD. If you have been reading on this and other forums you know that the complaint symptoms about CD action are fairly predictable. Now as to the exhaust sound change, I'm glad you reported that. Your modded exhaust must make that possible.

Remember that you should be able to select on your display screen a function that shows what cylinders are in operation in real time. You can use this to see if it matches with things you are observing, such as roughness, hesitation, lurch, hiccup, I like your description phantom braking, change in exhaust sound, etc.

Let us know what your build date is, use your engineering mind to keep researching, and we can keep sharing info. These cars are too nice to tolerate rough running. This is not a 1970's Chrysler, driveability problems are not acceptable.
 
Welcome.
Mine feels like you get a smidge of engine braking sometimes more than others like the lifters/HLAs aren't collapsing and the valves are still active a revolution or 2 too long.
After a long trip at 75mph ish with the CD going on and off, it has gotten more like the feel of an AC clutch than tapping the brakes but the sensitivity that the initial performance gives you makes it noticeable even when minor.
Maybe keeping the oil pressure up and cycling the solenoid multiple times cleared out something gummed up in the HLAs?
If you keep the energy display up and it will have you guessing how many smooth CD vs rough CD activations you are getting or your frustration level will continue to rise.

I get about 11 misfires every 20 minutes on the Mode6 report mostly cylinder 1 and 2.
I was hoping someone without the issue could give me if that number is par or high. By definition, misfires are detected by the crankshaft decelerating so you think it might be a good metric for late valve deactivation.

I have not gotten a dealer to say they will change the HLAs for the fun of it though.
Keep us posted. At least 2 of us following up with Mazda directly.
 
I have a 2023 GT non-turbo here in Canada. I drive in normal mode and have had no problems with the
CD. I do notice a very slight vibration when it engages or disconnects but only if I am looking for it. My build date is 03/2024 and built in Mexico. This is really a non-issue for me in any way.
 
Just a follow up. We hadn't noticed at the time but @MadDad and mine are a few build numbers different. Both are July 2023. Both acting like the HLA valve disengagement is laggy/sticky. Both have had loaners that ran a lot smoother than our vehicles.
 
My wife wanted a CX-30. I do all the maintenance on three vehicles. For the same reasons SDH explains above, I chose a 2022 CX30 preferred without turbo. Auto start/stop, cylinder deactivation, and CV or DC transmissions were deal breakers for me. Don't care for direct injection either but it's the way she goes on most engines now. I asked the sales guy to triple check and I also confirmed with forums and Mazda USA before signing. I discovered the 2023's added cylinder deactivation, which limited our options. Hope you get the issue sorted.

Still not happy the NA models are made in Mexico. The CX30 seems like a stretched 3 to fill a gap in the CUV market. It shows with flimsy oversized door skins, tiny windows, smaller fuel tank, undersized brakes, and comically small rear differential. If Mazda had shaped the 3 more like the Mk7 Golf or Elantra hatch, there would be little need for the CX30. I'm hoping affordable wagons return to favor before I'm dead. I try to only buy vehicles that were designed from the ground up and assembled in the same country they were designed. The CX30 OEM tires were loud and dangerous in the snow. I replaced them after 1 year with Michelin CC2's, which are much quieter and smoother but still need to test in snow. So far, we've had the temperature control valve replaced under warranty and I had to update the firmware with help from this forum to clear some persistent network communication warnings. Lot of wind noise from the closed driver side window. The front passenger door sticks during the hottest summer months. Still need to find a mechanic that is willing and able to remove the telematics snitch box in software so I can disconnect it for good. Otherwise, I think it's a solid car.


I Do Cars - Dead At 30K Miles!? Mazda Skyactiv-G 2.5 CX30 Core / Blown Engine Teardown

Skyactiv engines appear to be a good design. No issues in 3 years after beating on my ND2 MX5.
 
This past fall we helped our daughter buy her first new car, a 2023 CX-30 Carbon Edition. I have never had a new car, but I applied a lifetime of experience to help her get a satisfactory deal closed. We turned down the first example of this model that was offered for a test drive. It had a defective windshield that had a lens effect that distorted vision through a certain area of it.

The second one offered we looked over thoroughly. We gave it an extensive test run over a whole range of driving conditions. The car was nice, we closed the deal, daughter takes it home.

She has the car in daily use, it's working nicely. I'm relieved, no more troubleshooting of her vehicle for me.

After some usage, maybe 400 miles, she calls me concerned about what she is observing. When driving at moderate speeds, maybe 40-50 MPH range, light throttle, she is noticing a definite lurch, buck, hiccup, to the point where when driving at night the headlight beam pattern can be seen to quickly tip lower and back upward. When these hiccups happen, the tach needle drops a small amount and immediately goes back up. And, there are times when she is operating under these conditions and a steady vibration is felt, like through your feet on the floor.

We were concerned, she took it to the dealership. You guessed it, they say they don't notice anything wrong. Now start some extensive discussions, different shop people, more test driving. They still say nothing to see.

So, after more research, we the customer realize this car has the notorious CYLINDER DEACTIVATION. The dealership never once brought that up. That's right, they brought it back. We have other Mazda experience, and have seen the stories of cylinder deactivation problems in the prior models. So, even after complaints years back, it is acting up again.

It definitely is tied to the deactivation, we can watch the display screen that shows cylinder function, they correlate.

The car gets much use, she already has over 8,000 miles on it, and the roughness is no better. The dealer is making the usual hollow dealer promises, but not doing anything. I, being a technical / mechanical person, am gathering what info I can before this situation gets escalated.

Anyone out there in a similar conumdrum?
Having the exact same on my 2024 and the dealer acts like it’s not a problem. My sixth Mazda and probably my last.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Welcome to the forum. Our complaint has yet to be fixed, or even taken seriously by local dealer, Mazda, etc. Not one other person with the rough CD complaint has reported a fix.

So you have a 2024 with the problem? That means they still are doing something the same way.
 
Having the exact same on my 2024 and the dealer acts like it’s not a problem. My sixth Mazda and probably my last.
Welcome to the forum.
The first dealer just sort of put said it was "transmission learning". Two ECM resets and one transmission reset followed by a couple of service techs driving to program more aggressively later, it behaves the same.
With mine there was a break in period where it went from horrible for about 4 months to just really annoying and not smooth to drive.
Mine was bad enough if I had a video and some way of relating what I was feeling in the first month, I should have pushed for them to repurchase then.

If you scan it after each drive if yours is really bad, you will see a lot of cylinder misses, not enough to make the check engine light come on. The service manager will also dismiss as "some misfires are normal/accepted" (despite it being a brand new car).

The loaner 2024 CX30 I had was not "smooth" but it was a lot better than mine.
So you are in with the rest of us where they aren't touching the CD system.
I can see their side, if they don't know what is causing the issues, swapping the collapsing HLAs would be expensive as a "try something" fix since you need to remove the chain and the cams to get to.

At this point, the second dealer I took it to isn't calling me back and I haven't heard from Mazda Customer Experience despite sending weekly emails and sending them a video of the car not operating stably at 44mph.

Good luck.
 
I had my 2020 on a 250 mile round trip last week. I had the display set to the cylinder deactivation for a while, observing the engagement and disengagement. While traveling at 75 mph, mine only went into two cylinder mode on down hills. On the flats it stayed in 4 cyl. mode. There was the slightest of indication that the deactivation occurred.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
I had my 2020 on a 250 mile round trip last week. I had the display set to the cylinder deactivation for a while, observing the engagement and disengagement. While traveling at 75 mph, mine only went into two cylinder mode on down hills. On the flats it stayed in 4 cyl. mode. There was the slightest of indication that the deactivation occurred.
Looks like you got one of the good ones.
 
Looks like you got one of the good ones.
I would say you are correct, if there is such a thing as a "good one" when cutting out two of the four cylinders. To me it is a poor way to go about fuel saving on a small engine.

I hadn't ever watched the info screen for the system operation, probably because I didn't want to accept the presence of the system on mine. One of those ignorance is bliss things...

Hopefully those of you with the harsh operation of yours, will find the source of the problem and be able to correct it.
 
I had my 2020 on a 250 mile round trip last week. I had the display set to the cylinder deactivation for a while, observing the engagement and disengagement. While traveling at 75 mph, mine only went into two cylinder mode on down hills. On the flats it stayed in 4 cyl. mode. There was the slightest of indication that the deactivation occurred.
On mine "cruising" 44+mph and maintaining speed mine goes to 2 cylinders and sometimes flips between 2 and 4 based on wind, grade, and compressor draw between 44 and 60mph. Above 60mph, it is mostly on down hills or if he throttle back but don't back it all the way to dropping out the torque converter.
At 75mph either the momentum or the oil pressure/flow or something reduces how much of a jolt or shimmy the car has compared to the 45-60mph range
I halfway wonder if they missed the surface finishing spec on the collapse button assembly or the spring load spec of the collapsing HLAs so the valves don't deactivate the first rev that they are supposed to.
I actually bought a used outer HLA off eBay to get a little insight on that system.
 
This is a used outer HLA I bought off Ebay if anyone is interested in what part of this system looks like.
3 nested springs to extend the lifter back into place. 2 side hydraulic "buttons" with a spring in between to lock and unlock the lifter assembly in the extended position.


Image

Image
 
I would say you are correct, if there is such a thing as a "good one" when cutting out two of the four cylinders. To me it is a poor way to go about fuel saving on a small engine.

I hadn't ever watched the info screen for the system operation, probably because I didn't want to accept the presence of the system on mine. One of those ignorance is bliss things...

Hopefully those of you with the harsh operation of yours, will find the source of the problem and be able to correct it.
I wonder what a mechanical nightmare repairs will be when CD engines get some miles on them, and begin to have issues🤔
 
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