[ndrgd57]

Hopefully Mazda will rid CD with the new skyactive z motor coming out.

 

[CcycleK]

Hopefully Mazda will rid CD with the new skyactive z motor coming out.

I think I'll skip being an early adopter based on this last year's experience.

 

[MadDad]

This is a used outer HLA I bought off Ebay if anyone is interested in what part of this system looks like.
3 nested springs to extend the lifter back into place. 2 side hydraulic "buttons" with a spring in between to lock and unlock the lifter assembly in the extended position.


View attachment 10747
View attachment 10748

What could possibly go wrong?

 

[SDH]

Shame that Mazda didn't at least have the system deactivate completely while in Sports Mode, which seems like a no-brainer. No way to deactivate the system is just stupid, but perhaps that is the only way Mazda could get credit for it in terms of meeting economy/emission regulations imposed by the government - which is why a lot of this sort of problematic tech (along with stop/start in ICE vehicles) was developed in the first place.

 

[20CX30JBM]

On mine "cruising" 44+mph and maintaining speed mine goes to 2 cylinders and sometimes flips between 2 and 4 based on wind, grade, and compressor draw between 44 and 60mph. Above 60mph, it is mostly on down hills or if he throttle back but don't back it all the way to dropping out the torque converter.
At 75mph either the momentum or the oil pressure/flow or something reduces how much of a jolt or shimmy the car has compared to the 45-60mph range
I halfway wonder if they missed the surface finishing spec on the collapse button assembly or the spring load spec of the collapsing HLAs so the valves don't deactivate the first rev that they are supposed to.
I actually bought a used outer HLA off eBay to get a little insight on that system.

HLA?

 

[CcycleK]

HLA?

"Hydraulic Lash Adjuster" aka lifter.
In this case there is the little lifter on the top that maintains zero clearance between the valve, rocker and cam.
In this case maybe they like using HLA/Hydraulic Lash Adjuster vs lifter because it also has a hydraulic valve deactivation function?
This video might help.

 

[JakeyR97]

2024 Mazda3 Select Sport 2.5 auto w/ 2700 miles and I also feel shaking at 45-50+ and the cd system engaging and disengaging. It’s been to the dealer 4 times, 5 this coming Tuesday and they only keep looking at wheels and tires. Nothing else. Balance after balance and they can’t get it figured out. I’m pulling my hair out! Lemon law attorney has been contacted

 

[TronG]

2024 Mazda3 Select Sport 2.5 auto w/ 2700 miles and I also feel shaking at 45-50+ and the cd system engaging and disengaging. It’s been to the dealer 4 times, 5 this coming Tuesday and they only keep looking at wheels and tires. Nothing else. Balance after balance and they can’t get it figured out. I’m pulling my hair out! Lemon law attorney has been contacted

Did they ever fix it? I have the same problem. I got new tires and just got the rebalanced at mazda. I got an alignment and it still shakes. Going back to the dealer friday.

 

[MadDad]

2024 Mazda3 Select Sport 2.5 auto w/ 2700 miles and I also feel shaking at 45-50+ and the cd system engaging and disengaging. It’s been to the dealer 4 times, 5 this coming Tuesday and they only keep looking at wheels and tires. Nothing else. Balance after balance and they can’t get it figured out. I’m pulling my hair out! Lemon law attorney has been contacted

Welcome to the forum. Sorry it is for a problem, instead of being here to celebrate a new toy.

Was your car built in Japan or Mexico?

 

[JDC]

I've only had my CX-30 (a bit shy of 1,000 miles on the clock) at highway speeds a few times as most of my driving is around town and the street speed limits here max out at 45. Although I can't remember if the article was on Mazda or some other car brand I think I remember reading that the CD doesn't "kick in" until the engine reaches a certain temperature (and during those short in town trips my engine probably never gets there). At any rate, I've not experienced the issues you mention and hope that I never do. I'd considered buying a turbo model just to avoid the CD issue but couldn't justify the extra expense to avoid something on which there seems to be a difference of opinion. Some posters say the CD is a headache while others claim to notice it only minimally. So I "rolled the dice" and am hoping that it isn't a problem with my CX-30. At least mine doesn't have the I-Stop feature. I'm still checking every now and then to see if someone has come up with a an aftermarket CD defeat mechanism but I haven't run across one yet.

 

[MadDad]

I've only had my CX-30 (a bit shy of 1,000 miles on the clock) at highway speeds a few times as most of my driving is around town and the street speed limits here max out at 45. Although I can't remember if the article was on Mazda or some other car brand I think I remember reading that the CD doesn't "kick in" until the engine reaches a certain temperature (and during those short in town trips my engine probably never gets there). At any rate, I've not experienced the issues you mention and hope that I never do. I'd considered buying a turbo model just to avoid the CD issue but couldn't justify the extra expense to avoid something on which there seems to be a difference of opinion. Some posters say the CD is a headache while others claim to notice it only minimally. So I "rolled the dice" and am hoping that it isn't a problem with my CX-30. At least mine doesn't have the I-Stop feature. I'm still checking every now and then to see if someone has come up with a an aftermarket CD defeat mechanism but I haven't run across one yet.

The CD is operational when the engine is warmed up to a certain temperature, I don't remember it if I have even seen the actual number. With your driving it should get to be warmed enough eventually. The CD function becomes active below highway speeds. Ours I'm thinking 40 MPH, maybe even a little slower. We notice the roughness a lot at 40-50 MPH driving. It's also quite apparent up to full highway speed, so really a no win scenario.

Did you know you can select on the information screen a page that shows you the CD function, kicking in and out in real time. I think it is called power flow, someone help me if I am wrong. I don't have the car or manual here.

Those of us who are taking this seriously have yet to find a way to disable the CD, either selectively or permanently. Whoever does will be greatly appreciated.

 

[JDC]

Much agreed! As I said, I didn't want the CD in the first place but it was a matter of selecting the trim that ticked the MOST boxes for me. Unfortunately, only the pricier turbo models "sidestepped" the CD function. I'm all ears when/if ever someone finds a way to disable that function.

 

[CcycleK]

I've only had my CX-30 (a bit shy of 1,000 miles on the clock) at highway speeds a few times as most of my driving is around town and the street speed limits here max out at 45. Although I can't remember if the article was on Mazda or some other car brand I think I remember reading that the CD doesn't "kick in" until the engine reaches a certain temperature (and during those short in town trips my engine probably never gets there). At any rate, I've not experienced the issues you mention and hope that I never do. I'd considered buying a turbo model just to avoid the CD issue but couldn't justify the extra expense to avoid something on which there seems to be a difference of opinion. Some posters say the CD is a headache while others claim to notice it only minimally. So I "rolled the dice" and am hoping that it isn't a problem with my CX-30. At least mine doesn't have the I-Stop feature. I'm still checking every now and then to see if someone has come up with a an aftermarket CD defeat mechanism but I haven't run across one yet.

The temperature where CD starts in isn't amazingly high.
For speed, on level ground, initially it seemed like 42mph was when CD started.
After one dealer reset the transmission and "trained it" a little more aggressively the speed seems like it is 44mph.
On some vehicles it seems there is instability if you are trying to operate right at the point where power requirement is too high for 2 cylinders but low enough that it wants to switch out of 4 cylinders. So basically it runs in 4 cylinder mode and every 2 seconds you feel a deceleration pulse where it tries 2 cylinders but some permissive isn't met to stay in 2 cylinder mode.

They say they expect a software update but I've had the car about 14 months and no relief.
Mazda says it will not harm any thing on the engine in the "near future". I don't like them using the word "near".
I've seen it at lower speeds if you unload the engine and don't just come up to a cruising speed.

Cruising 45-60mph ish on flat ground/slightly rolling, CD will switch on and off quite a bit depending on engine load especially if you use cruise control. I mention cruise control because some drivers will lift up enough on the pedal to unlock the torque converter in which case you won't feel the CD jerk translated to the wheels/speed.

When I first got my CX30, the jerk with changing to 2 cylinders was pretty horrible so if you have issues, you will know.
Now it there and distracting enough I worry about long term effects on bearings and overall mechanical integrity.
From driving a loaner CX30, it isn't as rough in some units.

At some point in the journey with dealing with this Mazda Customer Experience stopped replying to my emails.
At this point I've gone to step 3 in the user manager and am engaging with BBB national programs.

 

[JakeyR97]

Did they ever fix it? I have the same problem. I got new tires and just got the rebalanced at mazda. I got an alignment and it still shakes. Going back to the dealer friday.

I found that they overinflated the tires to 40 psi, so the first couple days it seemed okay. Add the tires came back to normal the shakes came back. Moving forward with lemon law

 

[ndrgd57]

After reading this topic, what comes to mind is a possible safety issue when moving to and from 2 and 4 cylinders. Do those of you that have this problem perceive an issue during passing, etc when the transfer of cylinders occurs? I have a '21 CX 30 without CD so I am foreign to this CD scenario.

 

[CcycleK]

After reading this topic, what comes to mind is a possible safety issue when moving to and from 2 and 4 cylinders. Do those of you that have this problem perceive an issue during passing, etc when the transfer of cylinders occurs? I have a '21 CX 30 without CD so I am foreign to this CD scenario.

I will say I feel anxious with the sudden deceleration blip and shudder on wet pavement. I'd mention ice but we try not to leave the house. I worry about that a little which seems odd driving an AWD.

It is more an issue at that light pedal input and the valves deactivating than flooring it and going back to 4 cylinder mode.

 

[josephandrews222]

The CD is operational when the engine is warmed up to a certain temperature, I don't remember it if I have even seen the actual number. With your driving it should get to be warmed enough eventually. The CD function becomes active below highway speeds. Ours I'm thinking 40 MPH, maybe even a little slower. We notice the roughness a lot at 40-50 MPH driving. It's also quite apparent up to full highway speed, so really a no win scenario.

Did you know you can select on the information screen a page that shows you the CD function, kicking in and out in real time. I think it is called power flow, someone help me if I am wrong. I don't have the car or manual here.

Those of us who are taking this seriously have yet to find a way to disable the CD, either selectively or permanently. Whoever does will be greatly appreciated.

MadDad:

Between my wife and I (and now our youngest daughter), we have owned several Mazdas...and I'm looking to buy another.

About six months ago, while visiting San Diego, we rented a 2023 CX30 Carbon Edition for one week.

What a vehicle! We are not tall or wide people...and our kids are grown, so the tiny back seat etc is not a problem for us. I loved it.

When it comes time for us to buy, the CX30 will be at or near the top of our list.

In what would best be called a week of suburban-type driving, I don't remember feeling or perceiving any of the problems you describe with cylinder deactivation (CD).

But if I did, in a CX30 that I purchased for myself, I would be as irritated as you are now.

I've tried to read a bit about this problem.

Can you speak to the following:

1. In your opinion, is the CD problem worse with some individual CX30s and not so obvious in other CX30s?

2. Explain how you would test-drive a new CX30 to ascertain whether or not that particular vehicle suffered from the CD problem.

Thanks.

 

[josephandrews222]

I found that they overinflated the tires to 40 psi, so the first couple days it seemed okay. Add the tires came back to normal the shakes came back. Moving forward with lemon law

...thanks for the update here.

That the dealer tried the over-inflation trick sort of implies that Mazda is aware of this issue.

I am really glad I found out about this before really getting started with a purchase.

I do love the vehicle.

 

[CcycleK]

MadDad:

Between my wife and I (and now our youngest daughter), we have owned several Mazdas...and I'm looking to buy another.

About six months ago, while visiting San Diego, we rented a 2023 CX30 Carbon Edition for one week.

What a vehicle! We are not tall or wide people...and our kids are grown, so the tiny back seat etc is not a problem for us. I loved it.

When it comes time for us to buy, the CX30 will be at or near the top of our list.

In what would best be called a week of suburban-type driving, I don't remember feeling or perceiving any of the problems you describe with cylinder deactivation (CD).

But if I did, in a CX30 that I purchased for myself, I would be as irritated as you are now.

I've tried to read a bit about this problem.

Can you speak to the following:

1. In your opinion, is the CD problem worse with some individual CX30s and not so obvious in other CX30s?

2. Explain how you would test-drive a new CX30 to ascertain whether or not that particular vehicle suffered from the CD problem.

Thanks.

For unit to unit variation. Yes, some are worse than others. The 2024 loaner CX30 I had, you could barely tell when it switched to 2 cylinders most of the time. It wasn't entirely seamless though.

For testing a new one:
First up, go into the infotainment system and bring up the fuel efficiency monitor/energy flow. That lets you see it switch from 4 cylinder to 2 cylinder.
If you find a nice stretch where you can "maintain" 50-55mph, after you accelerate if you lighten up on the pedal (but not so much that you stat coasting) you should see it drop to 2 cylinders.
Basically with a little more pedal input it should flip back to 4 cylinder and then you can lighten up just enough and it will go back to 2 cylinder.
Maybe the more back to back switches you do, maybe it gets a touch smoother where as the first switch is the most pronounced?
If you ease up and it goes to 2 cylinders on a slight rise, it a little more pronounced too.
Just avoid lifting your foot to the point the torque converter unlocks since then any engine hiccup doesn't get translated to the wheels directly.
That is to check for rough CD.

For the car ending up in trying to switch to 2 cylinders but immediately going back to 4 and cycling like pulsing every 2 seconds until you say "enough of this!" and put your foot into it. That one is difficult to reliably reproduce and for me it is easier on some road segments to recreate the right engine load to have happen. Unfortunately being difficult to reproduce, it finds you sometimes when you aren't looking for it.

I actually really like that car other than this CD mess and I had Mazda Customer Experience stop responding to my emails back in October.

 

[josephandrews222]

Thanks for the reads and the response.

I like to know things before I commit to big purchases.

Please post when some news is out there about 'software fixes' for the CD issue.