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I'm now convinced that the taller sidewalls are the key to balancing out the cladding. Filling the gap with bigger tires certainly helps, but I think sidewalls are the biggest thing.

Seeing how close the tolerance is on 16" wheels, I think my rim choices might be too limited, so I'll likely go with 17" wheels.

What I would like to know is how tall of sidewalls I can get on 17" wheels... especially if I go with 225 or even 215. 235/65/17 (29.02") seems like it would likely rub on full lock for the same reason 235/60/18 (29.09") does. But using thinner tires should, I would think, alleviate that too some degree...

...or am I mistaken?
My gut tells me 215/70/17 won't rub. The thinner width helps at full lock. The downside is, 215/70/17 has a very limited selection of tires in that size. I actually cancelled my Motegi MR131 17x7 order and changed to the Enkei RPF1 17x7. I was a little concerned with the load rating on the Motegis, it was right at the Turbo's limit up front. RPF1 has a higher load rating and is lighter, but more expensive. Since these will be my winter wheels, I considered the Blizzak DM-V2 as they come in 215/70/17. However, at 30 lb each, that's simply too much added unsprung weight. Going with the Crossclimate2, a more versatile all-season, in 215/65/17 is 25.42 lb, coupled with the RPF1 wheel at 14.9 lb, saves 8.48 lb of unsprung weight from the stock 18s. The side wall height difference from 65 to 70 is 0.43". Small deduction in aethestics with the 65, but better retention in handling and braking with less weight.

I did some more data collection with regards to the 235/60/18 dilemma today. The owner says it barely rubs, so I'm digging deeper, as I'd like to run 235/55/19 on my summer setup. More to come on that tomorrow.
 
Discussion starter · #22 · (Edited)
WOW! Your CX-30 looks bad ass! I really like what you did and appreciate the risks that you took to go with this setup. I own a Select, which believe or not got me on the high end of my budget, so I won't be switching wheels anytime soon. I do wonder and of course I understand that with 18" wheels, there is less space for "taller" tires. Still, I'm wondering if anyone knows what the reasonable limit is for a taller tire for when the time comes to change tires.

Am I making sense? Basically adding taller tires to the factory 18" wheels. Of course the results will be far from dramatic, but any additional clearance that I can get, plus having the car look a little more aggressive would be nice. I live in Miami, so All Wheel Drive was never an option since it never snows down here. It does rain a lot, but it is nothing that the Mazda can't handle.

Thanks to all of you who so graciously share with us less mechanically inclined your experiences in customizing your CX-30.

Frank G
Thank you for the kind words! As for how much bigger you can go without trouble on 18s, the rim dimensions will play a huge factor. For example, there's a member out there running 235/55r18 BFG Trail Terrains without any reported issues on his stock wheels. However, if you were to factor in a lower or higher offset, that may change. Also, a 235/55r18 in the BFG Trail Terrain will not be identical to the same size by another manufacturer. There are variables to consider.

Just dig and dig for examples to find of people with personal experiences, because anything short of that is guess work and something as simple as offset can get you in trouble.

I made a little handy dandy chart with different possible wheel and tire combinations that would theoretically fit, staying between 215-235 widths. Maybe you can find it helpful. The slight rub at full lock for 235/60/18 is from a CX-30 owner who is running that tire size. This doesn't mean that diameters below 739mm won't rub, it simply means that his do indeed rub on the wheel wells at full lock (the steering wheel turned all the way to one side or the other). I read another user using 235/55/18 and the owner has pictures showing an estimated 1/4" of clearance at full lock. Hope this helps.

View attachment 3519
While this can serve as a helpful reference, it's unfortunately not an exact science as there are some considerable variables... For one, the calculated tire sizes aren't always consistent with the sizes the manufacturers put out. Case in point, the 235/60r18 guy who was barely rubbing, runs Falken Wildpeak AT trails, which according to Tire Rack actually measure out to 29.3" in outer diameter, not the calculated 29.09" in your chart. That's a significant difference.

Secondly, wheel offset is a tremendous factor as well. He appears to be running an Enkei TS-10 in 18x8 et40... Our fender liners are so modestly sized, that a few millimeters in or out will make all the difference in the world for clearance.

The best we can do is take calculated risks, or build up a compilation of exact data point combinations that are confirmed to work(not just in tire size but wheel width and offset as well). Once we've accumulated enough data, then we can understand a range of clearances that can be applied to theoretical wheel/tire sets.

I'm now convinced that the taller sidewalls are the key to balancing out the cladding. Filling the gap with bigger tires certainly helps, but I think sidewalls are the biggest thing.

Seeing how close the tolerance is on 16" wheels, I think my rim choices might be too limited, so I'll likely go with 17" wheels.

What I would like to know is how tall of sidewalls I can get on 17" wheels... especially if I go with 225 or even 215. 235/65/17 (29.02") seems like it would likely rub on full lock for the same reason 235/60/18 (29.09") does. But using thinner tires should, I would think, alleviate that too some degree...

...or am I mistaken?
I totally agree! It's crazy how the fatter sidewall effectively pulls the visual focus away from the cladding!

There's a member running 215/60r17 Wildpeak AT Trails on 17x7.5 et40 Liquid Metal Shadows. I don't recall the name, but here's a pic of the car. Their choice of tire was very conservative, as it calculates out to a smaller diameter than stock, but still looked pretty awesome! Visually helps the cladding a ton!

My guess would be that you should be able to go up in aspect ratio by 5%, meaning running a 215/65r17 doesn't appear that it would be problematic for that setup...

Image


For an additional reference point, here are a couple images of how tight my clearance is at full lock, despite being only 27.9" in outer diameter. That 30mm offset has reduced my clearances by pushing the wheel further out by 15mm from stock. It's roughly 1/4" gap at best. I was really tempted to go for 225/70r16 knowing people have cleared well over 29" in OD, but knew that offset and other factors would change the story... It just looked too risky and after seeing the result, I don't think I could have ran the 225s without rubbing:

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My gut tells me 215/70/17 won't rub. The thinner width helps at full lock. The downside is, 215/70/17 has a very limited selection of tires in that size. I actually cancelled my Motegi MR131 17x7 order and changed to the Enkei RPF1 17x7. I was a little concerned with the load rating on the Motegis, it was right at the Turbo's limit up front. RPF1 has a higher load rating and is lighter, but more expensive. Since these will be my winter wheels, I considered the Blizzak DM-V2 as they come in 215/70/17. However, at 30 lb each, that's simply too much added unsprung weight. Going with the Crossclimate2, a more versatile all-season, in 215/65/17 is 25.42 lb, coupled with the RPF1 wheel at 14.9 lb, saves 8.48 lb of unsprung weight from the stock 18s. The side wall height difference from 65 to 70 is 0.43". Small deduction in aethestics with the 65, but better retention in handling and braking with less weight.

I did some more data collection with regards to the 235/60/18 dilemma today. The owner says it barely rubs, so I'm digging deeper, as I'd like to run 235/55/19 on my summer setup. More to come on that tomorrow.
Oh wow, that's a bit concerning with the Motegis! I never would have thought to pay attention to the load rating with the idea that it can barely support the weight of a passenger vehicle... I'm currently looking to get Blizzaks with 16" wheels for my wife's CX-5, so I'm back on the wheel/tire hunt. I'd be lying if I said I'm not having fun with it...

I've also been dying to take the CX-30 out in the snow, but I took the whole front end off a week ago to install a 30" curved lightbar and plastidip the grill trim (while it was like 6 degrees out)... So I felt a bit under the weather and have been taking it easy since. Tuned in to see more of what you've got going on with your tire choices.

Image
 
While this can serve as a helpful reference, it's unfortunately not an exact science as there are some considerable variables... For one, the calculated tire sizes aren't always consistent with the sizes the manufacturers put out. Case in point, the 235/60r18 guy who was barely rubbing, runs Falken Wildpeak AT trails, which according to Tire Rack actually measure out to 29.3" in outer diameter, not the calculated 29.09" in your chart. That's a significant difference. Secondly, wheel offset is a tremendous factor as well. He appears to be running an Enkei TS-10 in 18x8 et40... Our fender liners are so modestly sized, that a few millimeters in or out will make all the difference in the world for clearance. The best we can do is take calculated risks, or build up a compilation of exact data point combinations that are confirmed to work(not just in tire size but wheel width and offset as well). Once we've accumulated enough data, then we can understand a range of clearances that can be applied to theoretical wheel/tire sets.
I'm on the same page. This dawned on me yesterday and it is what I was eluding to when I mentioned digging deeper and more to come tomorrow... ie. today. I did a comparison of the Michelin tires I have in mind, to the Wildpeaks. I'm really hoping the PS4 SUV 55s fit with 19x8.5 +45. They have 18mm less tread width and 2mm less diameter compared to the Wildpeak. I'm assuming the tread width plays a role when contacting the wheel well area? Less outer most tire width when the wheel is turned is less likely to make contact with the wheel well. As to what degree the width plays vs the overall diameter, I don't know. If the overall diameter plays a bigger role, the Crossclimate2's -4mm in diameter might be the route to go but I'd rather not run the CC2s as a summer tire.

I am teaching myself as I go, but it seems like basic geometry. A tire is a rectangle, inside the wheel well, another larger rectangle. If you have a thin rectangle and you turn the thin rectangle (tire) inside the larger rectangle (wheel well), you can see that the thin rectangle has a much easier time clearing the short edges of the larger rectangle (wheel well). Essentially the turn angle is greater before making contact with the wheel well. With that, the concerning measurement that should be considered should be the hyptenuse of the right traingle within the tire itself.
Length A is the diameter
Length B is the tread width
Length C is the hypotenuse of those measurements, which would the longest measurement to be concerned with when wheel rub is in question.
Image


The PS4 SUV 55s hypotenuse comes in at -6.6mm to the Wildpeaks.
I think I'm on the right track, but I'm having a tough time understanding how the offset ties into the mix.
Image


the fatter sidewall effectively pulls the visual focus away from the cladding! There's a member running 215/60r17 Wildpeak AT Trails on 17x7.5 et40 Liquid Metal Shadows. I don't recall the name, but here's a pic of the car. Their choice of tire was very conservative, as it calculates out to a smaller diameter than stock, but still looked pretty awesome! Visually helps the cladding a ton!
Another win for the higher sidewall.

My guess would be that you should be able to go up in aspect ratio by 5%, meaning running a 215/65r17 doesn't appear that it would be problematic for that setup..
If someone doesn't get to it before I do, I'll be sure to share when I get the 215/65/17's on.

For an additional reference point, here are a couple images of how tight my clearance is at full lock, despite being only 27.9" in outer diameter. That 30mm offset has reduced my clearances by pushing the wheel further out by 15mm from stock. It's roughly 1/4" gap at best. I was really tempted to go for 225/70r16 knowing people have cleared well over 29" in OD, but knew that offset and other factors would change the story... It just looked too risky and after seeing the result, I don't think I could have ran the 225s without rubbing:
That is close. That +30 offset really does reduce your clearance. How much poke beyond the fender do you estimate you have with +30 offset?

Oh wow, that's a bit concerning with the Motegis! I never would have thought to pay attention to the load rating with the idea that it can barely support the weight of a passenger vehicle... I'm currently looking to get Blizzaks with 16" wheels for my wife's CX-5, so I'm back on the wheel/tire hunt. I'd be lying if I said I'm not having fun with it...
Same. It's pretty fun to try gather the data and speculate. If only... http://www.thewheelfit.com/

I've also been dying to take the CX-30 out in the snow, but I took the whole front end off a week ago to install a 30" curved lightbar and plastidip the grill trim (while it was like 6 degrees out)... So I felt a bit under the weather and have been taking it easy since.
Interested to see how that light bar turns out. Get well soon.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
30" curved LED light bar installed. Plastidipped the chrome grill surround while I had it all apart. More details to follow...
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Had some clearance issues with the supplied Method center cap assemblies (and found the brushed metal look a little tacky). Found an enthusiast run business that specializes in neat 3D printed products and asked him for a clean solution to integrate my factory Mazda center caps. More details to follow...
Image
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
This looks really, really good. Almost like teeth. Great job. Be interested to see comparing photos of the light output difference as viewed from the cabin when you have time.
Thanks... I think I liked how subtle it looked without the yellow film on it. But since the whole purpose was to have a strong and useful light source in bad weather, the yellow look is a small price to pay for the functionality. It's definitely bright... Insanely bright, if you ask me. I'll take some more shots once all is finalized... I currently have the switch harness tucked in the engine bay as I'm still waiting on some smaller switches to arrive in the mail to run it into the cabin.

As to your question earlier about poke... I'm not sure I can accurately measure this with a straight edge down to the wheel as there is tire bulge to account for. I finally fished out my remaining 3 stock center caps last night and will be bolting them on the Methods today. I'll take some deeper angled shots to try and give you a better idea... but definitely a wider track up front and more recessed in the rear.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
The final challenge of fitting these Methods onto the CX-30 was that the included center caps do NOT fit the rear. But rather than just making them work, I took a different approach and couldn't be happier.

The Problem?

The rear axle shaft of the CX-30 protrudes out of the wheel just enough to prevent the center cap from sitting flush against the wheel. If I recall correctly, the amount protruding was between 1/16" - 1/8". Here's a shot of the Method center caps and shot of a card sitting FLAT against the wheel surface...
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Now if you're dead set on running the Method center caps, no problem... You can make spacers out of a sheet of rubber or some type of plastic and sandwich it between the center cap and the mounting surface of the wheel. But in my opinion, these included center caps would have looked more at home on a truck than a smooth bodied crossover... I wanted the center cap to be black, and if possible, somehow reutilize the Mazda logo for a cleaner OE+ look.

The Solution!

I found a small business called Alternative Manufacturing, started by a couple of enthusiasts that specialize in clever 3D printed parts... They already had similar center caps designed to adapt Subaru caps onto the same Method wheels. I contacted them using their form on the website and received a call the same day. I spoke with Evan and they were more than happy to help accommodate anything I needed...

My requirements were simple. I wanted the units to accept the OEM Mazda center cap and fit the Method wheel while clearing the rear axle shaft. As for the design details, I left that up to Evan, and they turned out perfect.

Despite it being right in the middle of the holidays, within a week, I had in my hands these very neat 3D printed center caps! I was so impressed by the final product and actually like the 3D printing artifacts/straiations... or whatever you'd call the little ridges. More importantly, they cleared the rear axle shaft, the holes sat perfectly in alignment to the wheel, and my factory center caps snapped in place with such tight and confident clearances, that I know they're not going anywhere.

If anyone is interested in a set of these for their Methods, the link is here: Mazda CX-30 Method MR502 Center Cap Adapter – Alt. Manufacturing

Otherwise, if you need any custom solutions that can be accomplished with 3D printing (yes, even as simple as some spacers for the Method caps), I cannot recommend Alternative Manufacturing highly enough! Their work and communication is professional, quick, thorough and detailed. And for the price? No brainer.

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Hey there! Was reading your thread and wanted to follow your build for my own 23 turbo premium. Could you confirm a few things for me?

Were your method wheels the "matte" or "painted" finish?

Offset is +30mm, right?

What was your solution to TPMS? Did you buy a new set from mazda or just live with the TPMS light?

Thanks in advance


My gut tells me 215/70/17 won't rub. The thinner width helps at full lock. The downside is, 215/70/17 has a very limited selection of tires in that size. I actually cancelled my Motegi MR131 17x7 order and changed to the Enkei RPF1 17x7. I was a little concerned with the load rating on the Motegis, it was right at the Turbo's limit up front. RPF1 has a higher load rating and is lighter, but more expensive. Since these will be my winter wheels, I considered the Blizzak DM-V2 as they come in 215/70/17. However, at 30 lb each, that's simply too much added unsprung weight. Going with the Crossclimate2, a more versatile all-season, in 215/65/17 is 25.42 lb, coupled with the RPF1 wheel at 14.9 lb, saves 8.48 lb of unsprung weight from the stock 18s. The side wall height difference from 65 to 70 is 0.43". Small deduction in aethestics with the 65, but better retention in handling and braking with less weight.

I did some more data collection with regards to the 235/60/18 dilemma today. The owner says it barely rubs, so I'm digging deeper, as I'd like to run 235/55/19 on my summer setup. More to come on that tomorrow.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Hey there! Was reading your thread and wanted to follow your build for my own 23 turbo premium. Could you confirm a few things for me?

Were your method wheels the "matte" or "painted" finish?

Offset is +30mm, right?

What was your solution to TPMS? Did you buy a new set from mazda or just live with the TPMS light?

Thanks in advance
You got it. These are +30 offset. When I bought, this was the only black finish available in our bolt pattern. So as far as I'm aware, painted black and matte black are the same finish... it just may be represented in different words. Realistically, I'd say it's somewhat eggshell in it's sheen, like a satin black. Not gloss and yet has a little more luster than a true matte finish.

Lord no... I couldn't deal with a TPMS light... I got replacement OE-spec TPMS sensors from the tire shop that mounted/balanced the set.

Since selling the CX-30, the wheel and tire set now happily live on my 5spd AWD Element, and they've been a blast in the snow/ice!

Image
 
You got it. These are +30 offset. When I bought, the right bolt pattern was only available in this black finish. As far as I'm aware painted black and matte black is the same finish... it just may be represented in different words. I'd say it's somewhat eggshell in it's sheen, like a satin black. Not gloss and yet has a little more lusted than completely matte.

Lord no... I couldn't deal with a TPMS light... I got replacement OE-spec TPMS sensors from the tire shop that mounted/balanced the set.

Since selling the CX-30, the wheel and tire set now happily live on my 5spd AWD Element, and they've been a blast in the snow/ice!

View attachment 6444
Any feedback on getting rid of the cx30? We replaced our 20 year old CRV because it was struggling in the colorado mountains here. Love the cx30 so far and trying to wrap my head around whether spending 2500 on PPF on a daily car this casual is worth it or not
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Any feedback on getting rid of the cx30? We replaced our 20 year old CRV because it was struggling in the colorado mountains here. Love the cx30 so far and trying to wrap my head around whether spending 2500 on PPF on a daily car this casual is worth it or not
It was a fantastic car, just a little redundant in terms of usability in our stable as my wife has a CX-5 GT. It was also a bit enticing to sell it for more than we bought it for. Getting rid of it helped me justify grabbing a little daily and adding an NB Miata in the garage for the weekends. I've switched cars a few time since, and I now daily the Element; it satisfies my need for a 5spd manual daily, the AWD works well, and with 2 dogs I never have to spend an hour picking hair out of the carpets (as it has rubber floors).

For PPF, you'll want to get in touch with KuroCX30, he went all out in that direction and the result looked amazing. I'm sure he'd be able to provide some real feedback on how it's been and whether it was worth it!
 
It was a fantastic car, just a little redundant in terms of usability in our stable as my wife has a CX-5 GT. It was also a bit enticing to sell it for more than we bought it for. Getting rid of it helped me justify grabbing a little daily and adding an NB Miata in the garage for the weekends. I've switched cars a few time since, and I now daily the Element; it satisfies my need for a 5spd manual daily, the AWD works well, and with 2 dogs I never have to spend an hour picking hair out of the carpets (as it has rubber floors).

For PPF, you'll want to get in touch with KuroCX30, he went all out in that direction and the result looked amazing. I'm sure he'd be able to provide some real feedback on how it's been and whether it was worth it!
Thanks for the feedback man! I'm definitely wanting smaller wheels/bigger tires like you did, may pick your brain in the near future. If you got the part number for those tpms sensors or have any other advice with the wheel fitment please let me know!
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Thanks for the feedback man! I'm definitely wanting smaller wheels/bigger tires like you did, may pick your brain in the near future. If you got the part number for those tpms sensors or have any other advice with the wheel fitment please let me know!

I think the configuration really toughens the look of the CX-30 and gives the cladding more “purpose”…

I don’t have specifics on the TPMS, but any local tire shop should be able to look up the type you need… other threads may have more information on this.

I’d just be mindful of the centercap fitment issue with the caps that came with the wheels. Refer to my post# 27 above for details and resolution on that matter.

All the best!
 
Thanks to v24design I pulled the trigger on the MR 502 wheels and couldn't be happier. I had originally purchased the same size as him 16x7 +30 but unfortunately after three months of them being on backorder I changed to the +15 offset with 215/70 tires. To my surprise I have not experienced any rub and thanks to the offset I didn't have to use the aftermarket center caps. Yes there is definitely some wheel poke, but I don't really care. It now corners like a dream.
 

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Discussion starter · #36 ·
Thanks to v24design I pulled the trigger on the MR 502 wheels and couldn't be happier. I had originally purchased the same size as him 16x7 +30 but unfortunately after three months of them being on backorder I changed to the +15 offset with 215/70 tires. To my surprise I have not experienced any rub and thanks to the offset I didn't have to use the aftermarket center caps. Yes there is definitely some wheel poke, but I don't really care. It now corners like a dream.
Wow. That offset actually looks great!

Love the poke and the concave look of the wheel face. Glad to hear you’ve had no fitment issues!
 
Thanks to v24design I pulled the trigger on the MR 502 wheels and couldn't be happier. I had originally purchased the same size as him 16x7 +30 but unfortunately after three months of them being on backorder I changed to the +15 offset with 215/70 tires. To my surprise I have not experienced any rub and thanks to the offset I didn't have to use the aftermarket center caps. Yes there is definitely some wheel poke, but I don't really care. It now corners like a dream.
Hello, I've been on the shop looking around at rims now for my 2024 Mazda cx-30 non turbo. First off, I'm in love with your car! I'm thinking of doing the same thing that you did. Have you had any mechanical issues with it since the time you have put it on? What type of tire are you using? Could you let me know what you use in the front for the fog lights? What is the hitch on the back called for the tire. Once again super sweet setup! I just hope I can get a response as I'm looking to put this on my list to do soon.
 
Thanks to v24design I pulled the trigger on the MR 502 wheels and couldn't be happier. I had originally purchased the same size as him 16x7 +30 but unfortunately after three months of them being on backorder I changed to the +15 offset with 215/70 tires. To my surprise I have not experienced any rub and thanks to the offset I didn't have to use the aftermarket center caps. Yes there is definitely some wheel poke, but I don't really care. It now corners like a dream.
Nice looking rig you have , been looking to do something similar to my rig👌 so you have not have any issues with running or hitting with the 16x7 with ET15 🤔 I really liking the look of the 17’s with 225/65/17 tires but now that I’ve seen yours and v24design’s set up I’m really liking the 16’s 👌 so the MR502 is the only wheel that has been tried so far in 16 that fits with either a ET30 or ET15 offset and the ET15 dosnt require a custom center cap like the ET30 does is that right or have I missed something , just trying to get all my ducks in a row before I pull the trigger on wheels and tires,
 
30" curved LED light bar installed. Plastidipped the chrome grill surround while I had it all apart. More details to follow...
View attachment 3614

Had some clearance issues with the supplied Method center cap assemblies (and found the brushed metal look a little tacky). Found an enthusiast run business that specializes in neat 3D printed products and asked him for a clean solution to integrate my factory Mazda center caps. More details to follow...
View attachment 3615
Now that’s trick how you mounted the light bar👌 I’m very interested in this 🥳
 
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