[joydivision84]

No this did not work for me. It kept the power on way too long after the key was turned off for my comfort level. I ended up running a 15' long USB cable from the dashcam to the center console - tucking it in all along the way. It turns off when key is off.

Appreciate the answer. In a very general sense I'd be ok with it staying on, but only if it allowed parking mode to be activated on the dashcam I own (viofo T130). Without parking mode it's just kill the battery as you know.

 

[joydivision84]

Ok so for the hk4 from viofo, tapping the white wire does work. Just make sure the tap actually has continuity with both wires or it wont work. (Tap didnt cut the wire properly when pressing the metal thing in for me when I did it the first time around)

Do you mind elaborating on where this white wire is?

 

[joydivision84]

No this did not work for me. It kept the power on way too long after the key was turned off for my comfort level. I ended up running a 15' long USB cable from the dashcam to the center console - tucking it in all along the way. It turns off when key is off.

Sorry to be a pain in the butt man, but just to elaborate on that a little more. I presume when you say the OBD2 device stayed on too long for your liking, you're not talking about parking mode. I presume the OBD power adapter didn't turn on parking mode on your dashcam and just kept it running in 'normal mode', thus putting strain on your battery.

I just purchased a Viofo T130 and it's blowing my mind now that even after purchasing the hardwire kit for it, there seems to be no simple way to HW it using the internal fuse box, or even the OBD port (specifically to enable parking mode).

To make matters one there seems to be no device that's a direct comparison to this dashcam, with good app integration, 3 cameras etc, for the price anyway. Really frustrating.

 

[GeoJoe]

I tired this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RXTJK4F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

...and the dashcam I was using just never turned off.

I installed this mirror cam, as it's front and rear - 4k supposedly - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TZWC28S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Liongkong]

No this did not work for me. It kept the power on way too long after the key was turned off for my comfort level. I ended up running a 15' long USB cable from the dashcam to the center console - tucking it in all along the way. It turns off when key is off.

How could you enable the parking mode by using the USB port in the center console?

Thanks!

 

[Liongkong]

New member here, just got my 2022 CX-30 GS last week.
I bought a Thinkware 2ch dashcam and was just reading upon everyone's experiences with dashcam installations.
and realized there was an OBD cable that Thinkware sells that allows me to have parking mode without hardwiring, will go that route in the next week or two.

Thank you all for the information put forth in this thread!

Did the Thinkware ODB2 adapter work for parking mode on your dashcam?

Thanks!

 

[GeoJoe]

How could you enable the parking mode by using the USB port in the center console?

Thanks!

As mentioned in your other thread, mine just turns off with the USB power. No parking mode. Your best bet would probably be to go the Blackvue battery backup route if you want this.

 

[Rafletcher]

As mentioned in your other thread, mine just turns off with the USB power. No parking mode. Your best bet would probably be to go the Blackvue battery backup route if you want this.

And you’d want the dashcam battery to be on a switched supply too, or it’ll keep being recharged by the 12v battery while the dashcam draws power from the dashcam batter.

 

[joydivision84]

Did the Thinkware ODB2 adapter work for parking mode on your dashcam?

Thanks!

I can confirm that if you are looking for a quality dashcam that is well priced, vantrues E1, E2 and E3 all work very well and give you 3 easy power options for the cx 30. They can either be powered by the OBD port, or via hardwiring to the fuse box. As mentioned in another thread, the hardwiring for the Vantrue(s) is different to other manufacturers in that it requires an always on fuse and a ground, that's it. With this set up parking mode can be enabled when you wish.

It is the same with the OBD port. Not only that you can use parking mode via the central consoles USB or cigarette power socket. This is because as Vantrues parking mode works off sensors in the dashcam, where it detects the vehicle is stationary for 5 mins or more (or you can manually turn on if you wish). This will put the dashcam into an ultra lower power mode, and it will draw only enough power to enable the G-sensor on the dashcam so that it will turn on if it detects an impact (there are 5 sensitivity settings).

You can also have motion detection parking mode which uses a little more power.

Point is and I can confirm this as I have tested and now own, the Vantrue E Series cams allow parking mode via USB, OBD or hardwire, and can be used with always on fuse. In fact it is designed for that and not an on/off fuse.

 

[Liongkong]

I can confirm that if you are looking for a quality dashcam that is well priced, vantrues E1, E2 and E3 all work very well and give you 3 easy power options for the cx 30. They can either be powered by the OBD port, or via hardwiring to the fuse box. As mentioned in another thread, the hardwiring for the Vantrue(s) is different to other manufacturers in that it requires an always on fuse and a ground, that's it. With this set up parking mode can be enabled when you wish.

It is the same with the OBD port. Not only that you can use parking mode via the central consoles USB or cigarette power socket. This is because as Vantrues parking mode works off sensors in the dashcam, where it detects the vehicle is stationary for 5 mins or more (or you can manually turn on if you wish). This will put the dashcam into an ultra lower power mode, and it will draw only enough power to enable the G-sensor on the dashcam so that it will turn on if it detects an impact (there are 5 sensitivity settings).

You can also have motion detection parking mode which uses a little more power.

Point is and I can confirm this as I have tested and now own, the Vantrue E Series cams allow parking mode via USB, OBD or hardwire, and can be used with always on fuse. In fact it is designed for that and not an on/off fuse.

Good to hear that at least there is one dashcam work for CX 30.

May I know what E series are you using? And how long did you own it.

Thanks!

 

[joydivision84]

Good to hear that at least there is one dashcam work for CX 30.

May I know what E series are you using? And how long did you own it.

Thanks!

I'm using the E3. Front cam, rear cam and internal cam. We had someone scrape into our car parked at target a few months ago and it annoyed me enough that I wanted to give myself a chance at least to get whoever's licence plate if it happens again. My priority was a 3 cam system, parking mode, and one that works seamlessly with the CX 30. As you're aware a lot of dashcams require being hardwired to the fusebox in the engine block because they need acc, always on and a ground. That was a pain in the ass to me so I found this model and it seems to be pretty much the only company that makes a product that makes it easy to use for Mazda owners, in relation to minimum effort hook up anyway.

We've used it about 3 weeks now. Things I like about it is the near 4k front camera (1944p), the voice commands and the fact it has 5g WiFi which makes it quick and easy to move saved video clips from the dashcam to your phone. It seems to be generally just better specced than the alternative blackvues etc.

I can 100% recommend it, both the ODB and inner fusebox power kits worked as intended for me, with only a ground and always on fuse for the hardwire kit.

I ended up returning the hardwire kit and using the OBD power adaptor though, as it would be easy to remove if replacing the dashcam in the future. But both worked equally well and I've tested the power draw on both whilst parked overnight and it's acceptable that I'm not worried about the battery. I would say if you have parking mode on overnight every day, it's definitely recommended that you drive your car daily. It's kinda a generalisation but if you drive to work and back everyday as I do then it's fine.

Either way, E3 has been great. Would imagine the E2 and E1 would be exactly the same in many ways, minus the numbers of cameras.

 

[Liongkong]

I'm using the E3. Front cam, rear cam and internal cam. We had someone scrape into our car parked at target a few months ago and it annoyed me enough that I wanted to give myself a chance at least to get whoever's licence plate if it happens again. My priority was a 3 cam system, parking mode, and one that works seamlessly with the CX 30. As you're aware a lot of dashcams require being hardwired to the fusebox in the engine block because they need acc, always on and a ground. That was a pain in the ass to me so I found this model and it seems to be pretty much the only company that makes a product that makes it easy to use for Mazda owners, in relation to minimum effort hook up anyway.

We've used it about 3 weeks now. Things I like about it is the near 4k front camera (1944p), the voice commands and the fact it has 5g WiFi which makes it quick and easy to move saved video clips from the dashcam to your phone. It seems to be generally just better specced than the alternative blackvues etc.

I can 100% recommend it, both the ODB and inner fusebox power kits worked as intended for me, with only a ground and always on fuse for the hardwire kit.

I ended up returning the hardwire kit and using the OBD power adaptor though, as it would be easy to remove if replacing the dashcam in the future. But both worked equally well and I've tested the power draw on both whilst parked overnight and it's acceptable that I'm not worried about the battery. I would say if you have parking mode on overnight every day, it's definitely recommended that you drive your car daily. It's kinda a generalisation but if you drive to work and back everyday as I do then it's fine.

Either way, E3 has been great. Would imagine the E2 and E1 would be exactly the same in many ways, minus the numbers of cameras.

I will drive for work 5 days per week. One way round 20 miles. It took me around 45-60 mins depends on traffic. And weekend almost not driving.

So, is it still good for the car battery?

Did you tapped the hardware kit before change to ODB2 adapter?

If yes, what fuse number did you tapped on the fuse box?

I'm looking for the E3 too. Do the E series have the live view on app? If I have mobile network or wifi, can it use for upload to cloud?

Thanks!

 

[RandyWalters]

I have a 2021 Mazda 3 Sedan and with the info from a thread in another forum that has the instruction sheet for installing the optional Wireless Phone Charger, i found an ignition-switched wire in the driver's side kick panel that i connected my V1 Radar Detector to so it comes on when i turn on the ignition, and turns off when i shut the car off. It is a white wire in there that powers the OEM Wireless Phone Charger and i tapped into that to get switched power. Works perfectly.

Since the CX-30 is based on the Mazda 3 Sedan, it may have the same white wire in the kickpanel area. See if you can find an instruction sheet for installing the optional Wireless Phone Charger in a CX-30, and/or remove the kick panel cover and see if the wiring is the same as on the 3 Sedan. I'd look at my wife's new CX-30 but if i took that area apart she'd have a stroke. The pictures in the Mazda 3 thread are pretty clear so see how they compare to the CX-30.

I think i attached a link to the picture that shows a big red tap with a big red wire that's clamped onto the little white switched wire.

Here's the thread:

Switched Power @ Drivers' Kick Panel

From OEM wireless charger installation manual: Can confirm that white wire works fine with 3A fuse, though it is paired with ground from the lighter socket, which may be necessary.

www.mazda3revolution.com

https://www.mazda3revolution.com/cd...ale-down/https://www.mazda3revolution.com/attachments/1616506495113-png.281227/

 

[Liongkong]

I have a 2021 Mazda 3 Sedan and with the info from a thread in another forum that has the instruction sheet for installing the optional Wireless Phone Charger, i found an ignition-switched wire in the driver's side kick panel that i connected my V1 Radar Detector to so it comes on when i turn on the ignition, and turns off when i shut the car off. It is a white wire in there that powers the OEM Wireless Phone Charger and i tapped into that to get switched power. Works perfectly.

Since the CX-30 is based on the Mazda 3 Sedan, it may have the same white wire in the kickpanel area. See if you can find an instruction sheet for installing the optional Wireless Phone Charger in a CX-30, and/or remove the kick panel cover and see if the wiring is the same as on the 3 Sedan. I'd look at my wife's new CX-30 but if i took that area apart she'd have a stroke. The pictures in the Mazda 3 thread are pretty clear so see how they compare to the CX-30.

I think i attached a link to the picture that shows a big red tap with a big red wire that's clamped onto the little white switched wire.

Here's the thread:

Switched Power @ Drivers' Kick Panel

From OEM wireless charger installation manual: Can confirm that white wire works fine with 3A fuse, though it is paired with ground from the lighter socket, which may be necessary.

www.mazda3revolution.com

https://www.mazda3revolution.com/cd...ale-down/https://www.mazda3revolution.com/attachments/1616506495113-png.281227/

My Cx30 is Select trim. It doesn't has the wireless charger.

Can It still applicable?

Any video for how to install the optional wireless charger?

Thanks!

 

[RandyWalters]

My Mazda 3 also does not have the wireless charger, but that switched white wire i referenced is there in the kickpanel.

I presume that pretty much all Mazdas are pre-wired with that white wire since the wireless charger is available from the Mazda parts department as an accessory. The only way to know for sure is to open that kick panel and see if that white wire is present on your particular car. And if it is, you can get a needle-type 12 volt Voltage tester that you pierce the wire's insulation with to see if it's hot with the ignition on, and not hot with the ignition on. That's what i did since i have such a tester.

 

[Denys]

Well, the installation is all done and it turned out well.

One thing of note - since I had to pull one of the engine control system fuses to test which side was the load side (to properly install the fuse tap) by turning on ACC mode, so when I did finally start the car up, there was a check engine light and the central panel had an engine malfunction warning. Plugged in my Veepeak OBDII bluetooth module and pulled the codes and it was basically that the computer was failing to see a couple of the items it checks, so I just reset the codes through the OBDII and the issue went away and has not come back. Managed to fit the Cellink B battery under the driver's seat, just snugged in to the right of the under seat vent and there's space there to tuck all the cabling under where the carpet splits. It actually sits right under the seat rail and I ran the seat through its full range of motion to ensure there's no interference.

Front Camera: The power cable runs across the headliner, down the driver's side A-pillar and down the front of the door frame beneath the weather stripping and then connects up to the feed from the Cellink B battery. All the wires and connections tuck into some space just behind the interior fuse panel (there's some space between it and the dead-pedal foam block hidden behind the carpeting).

View attachment 873

View attachment 874

View attachment 875

I ran the rear camera cable down the passenger A pillar and the down across the floor - if you remove the front and rear sill plates you can easily feed it through the B-pillar trim at the bottom without removing it. I prefer this to going over the top along the headliner due to the airbags being up there and not wanting a cable to interfere with their deployment. From there it was up the C-pillar, where you can tuck it along where the plastic meets the headliner, and then there's the work you need to do on the hatch itself.

View attachment 876


You have to remove the center trim piece from the top of the inner hatch itself and disconnect the rubber cable tubing on the right side. I checked this rubber conduit on both sides (there's two of them back there) before I ran the camera feed and the right hand tube has more room in it. The rubber grommets don't pull up as easily as other cars I've had because they're permanently attached to plastic clips that actually connect them to the sheetmetal holes, so take your time lifting the rubber edge and you can see the two retention tabs in the white plastic clip. Just push them in and the grommet/rubber tube releases from the bodywork. You'll have to carefully feed the cable through this conduit - I used a hangar wire and then taped the camera cable to it to help pull it through. You can also use a little bit of soapy water on the cable to help it along if needed.

View attachment 878

Once you have the cable into that rear cavity, it can be connected up to the camera and you can then mount the camera to the glass. Once the plastic trim piece is back on, only a tiny bit of the feed cable shows.

View attachment 879

The camera set is a BlackVue DR750S-2CH, with 1080p Full HD resolutions front and rear, Sony STARVIS CMOS sensors, approximately 139 degrees diagonal view (116 degrees horizontal and 61 degrees vertical). I like BlackVue cameras as they don't have built-in screens (so they have a nice, small profile), you just connect to them via WiFi using your phone to get a live feed so you can adjust them or look at recorded video on the road if needed. I use a 256GB SD card and that allows for quite a lot of recording - even from 2 channels - before it has to overwrite. Manual recordings and impacts are protected and won't be overwritten.

Sorry I failed to take photos when I had stuff taken apart - when I get to working on a project I just go at it hard and don't even stop to eat. If anyone has any questions, please let me know.

I don’t understand how you remove white plastic clip (tube for wire)? Just push to up? If yes, you remove all ceiling? Or how?

 

[gbobcat]

Well, the installation is all done and it turned out well.

One thing of note - since I had to pull one of the engine control system fuses to test which side was the load side (to properly install the fuse tap) by turning on ACC mode, so when I did finally start the car up, there was a check engine light and the central panel had an engine malfunction warning. Plugged in my Veepeak OBDII bluetooth module and pulled the codes and it was basically that the computer was failing to see a couple of the items it checks, so I just reset the codes through the OBDII and the issue went away and has not come back. Managed to fit the Cellink B battery under the driver's seat, just snugged in to the right of the under seat vent and there's space there to tuck all the cabling under where the carpet splits. It actually sits right under the seat rail and I ran the seat through its full range of motion to ensure there's no interference.

Front Camera: The power cable runs across the headliner, down the driver's side A-pillar and down the front of the door frame beneath the weather stripping and then connects up to the feed from the Cellink B battery. All the wires and connections tuck into some space just behind the interior fuse panel (there's some space between it and the dead-pedal foam block hidden behind the carpeting).

View attachment 873

View attachment 874

View attachment 875

I ran the rear camera cable down the passenger A pillar and the down across the floor - if you remove the front and rear sill plates you can easily feed it through the B-pillar trim at the bottom without removing it. I prefer this to going over the top along the headliner due to the airbags being up there and not wanting a cable to interfere with their deployment. From there it was up the C-pillar, where you can tuck it along where the plastic meets the headliner, and then there's the work you need to do on the hatch itself.

View attachment 876


You have to remove the center trim piece from the top of the inner hatch itself and disconnect the rubber cable tubing on the right side. I checked this rubber conduit on both sides (there's two of them back there) before I ran the camera feed and the right hand tube has more room in it. The rubber grommets don't pull up as easily as other cars I've had because they're permanently attached to plastic clips that actually connect them to the sheetmetal holes, so take your time lifting the rubber edge and you can see the two retention tabs in the white plastic clip. Just push them in and the grommet/rubber tube releases from the bodywork. You'll have to carefully feed the cable through this conduit - I used a hangar wire and then taped the camera cable to it to help pull it through. You can also use a little bit of soapy water on the cable to help it along if needed.

View attachment 878

Once you have the cable into that rear cavity, it can be connected up to the camera and you can then mount the camera to the glass. Once the plastic trim piece is back on, only a tiny bit of the feed cable shows.

View attachment 879

The camera set is a BlackVue DR750S-2CH, with 1080p Full HD resolutions front and rear, Sony STARVIS CMOS sensors, approximately 139 degrees diagonal view (116 degrees horizontal and 61 degrees vertical). I like BlackVue cameras as they don't have built-in screens (so they have a nice, small profile), you just connect to them via WiFi using your phone to get a live feed so you can adjust them or look at recorded video on the road if needed. I use a 256GB SD card and that allows for quite a lot of recording - even from 2 channels - before it has to overwrite. Manual recordings and impacts are protected and won't be overwritten.

Sorry I failed to take photos when I had stuff taken apart - when I get to working on a project I just go at it hard and don't even stop to eat. If anyone has any questions, please let me know.

This post is still helpful years later. Thank you!

For anyone's future reference:

I just installed a VIOFO A229 Pro with front and rear cameras in my 2021 CX-30 Turbo Premium.

I opted to go down the passenger A pillar for both power and rear video. I partially removed the A pillar trim (just pulled it off enough at the top) and fished the wire through the cable clips behind the airbag, then down behind the various panels there. The power cable goes under the passenger dash, far from the knee airbag, and around to the USB port under the climate control. The rear camera cable goes along the baseboards and up the back as shown above.

So far, the USB port under the climate control seems up to the task of powering the camera and it shuts off about two minutes after turning off the car. It does seem that even when the ignition is off and you open the door the car will power the USB port again for two minutes. I have not investigated every door opening and closing scenario yet, but it seems like it will shut off again in each case, so as not to drain the battery. We decided not to worry about parking mode.

Fishing the wire through that rubber channel in the hatch was a challenge. I easily fished a zip tie through there, but could not succeed in pulling the wire back with it. The channel is quite narrow at the bends, but spacious in the middle. We ended up just kind of massaging the USB cable through. Popping the little clips holding the grommets was quite easy with the sharp end of one of the panel tools I have.

Thanks again ArcticHound and everyone else who makes this forum a great resource!

 

[rzc]

Nice

 

[rzc]

Very helpful discussion. I needed to tap two fuses one for a dash cam and the other for a escort radar. And everything in the interior fuse box was live all the time. My 2020 cx 30 had a battery drain problem at 3 months old and this is before a dash cam and radar. Dealer couldn’t figure it out. Had to use the radar and dash came off a cigarette lighter adapter which I had to unplug every time. Jumped it 7 times over 5 months, just from random system draw.

Couple months ago, go in for service and they have a control module update, looking into what the update was, it was to address a software glitch where the ccu and bcm are suppose to shut off after 24 minutes from lock but sometimes did not.

After the update, the interior fuses I am tapped into now do turn off after 24 mins. I verified by leaving a battery powered camera pointed at the radar and left the radar on. The radar lost power after 23 some minutes. The BlackVue battery you can connect with Bluetooth as long as it gets power, I left my keys inside my house and went to my car and tried to connect to the battery but it was also offline. Also over night it discharged itself to 47%.
Fast forward 2 months, repeated short drives (less than 3 miles) over a short time without any long drives in between do lead to a dead battery time to time. As the battery does not charge enough to start the starter motor.

*Update: Finding this community had me brainstorming.
Will report back on how the following goes in a couple weeks:
A secondary fuse box powered by a relay which inturn is powered by a interior fuse panel tap. Planning on using the acc+ wire for the wireless charger in the center console as a trigger for the relay, verified it turns off as soon as the ignition is off with my phone. I went to look for the acc wire after I saw the mazda3 install posted here before. Luckily/unprofessionally enough dealer install left it dangling. Then wire my devices into the secondary fuse box. Hopefully warranty stays intact, as it’s a fuse tap for power and a splice into a dealer installed wire for a signal source.

I would go through the firewall, but I could not see the opening on the engine side, don’t feel comfortable poking around.

Also new to the community, glad there to have found this.


Final Update: RESOLVED !!

I was successfully able to install a relay and use the wireless charger wire as a trigger. If you don’t have a wireless charger you should still be able to tap into the ignition on pin in the ecu harness, it’s shown pretty well in the mazda3 charger install. If anyone wants a picture let me know I just forgot to take one. There is a open spot under the driver side dash where you can put a bolt through and mount the relay, visible in picture. Now my radar and dash cam both turn off with the ignition off. Happy to help anyone else through the process or go into more detail.

Link for relay: Amazon.com: 1 Pack 40/30 AMP 12 V DC Waterproof Relay and Harness - Heavy Duty 12 AWG Tinned Copper Wires, 5-PIN SPDT Bosch Style Automotive Relay: Industrial & Scientific

Link for inline fuse harness: https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHM-RP-Black-Holder/dp/B004AH4Q22

I used ATM fuses, you can use mini or ATO/ATC. Mini will help save space, I had to abandon the fuse box idea due to space issues.

View attachment 2185

I did my install weeks ago and all thank to the posts in this entire thread

Below is what I did...

https://www.cx30talk.com/posts/50016/

https://www.cx30talk.com/posts/50195/