[ArcticHound]

So how do door windows work? They do not work if key is not on so their circuit must be switched. Where are the fuses for door windows?

Power window fuses (split between driver and passenger sides) are F9 and F10 on the interior fuse panel. While the system may not allow them to be used when the ignition is off, those fuses definitely have constant power to them.

 

[Tireman9]

Power window fuses (split between driver and passenger sides) are F9 and F10 on the interior fuse panel. While the system may not allow them to be used when the ignition is off, those fuses definitely have constant power to them.

OK, so the key must control (on-off) the Engine Control System. One would think turning on the key would activate a relay which activates the fuses Morel listed. otherwise, the power for all the ECS stuff would run through the Ign switch which I doubt. Wonder if anyone has a copy of the electrical schematic.

 

[marksman]

So how do door windows work? They do not work if key is not on so their circuit must be switched. Where are the fuses for door windows?

Fused circuits supply power to door controllers which only work when the key is in ingition. Just a guess but it's a way they can work.

 

[PeterK]

Have a look at https://sep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809172479195/BCKA-V7-440.pdf the Mazda fitting instructions for the wireless phone charger in the centre console. This is ignition switched and powered by splicing into the wiring in the foot well and would therefore suggest that this is the easiest (but not easy) accessible supply. It's also worth noting that checking for incorrect wiring of the wireless charger is one of the tests in the Mazda "flat battery" TSI - dealers cutting corners with the installation??

 

[Tireman9]

Have a look at https://sep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809172479195/BCKA-V7-440.pdf the Mazda fitting instructions for the wireless phone charger in the centre console. This is ignition switched and powered by splicing into the wiring in the foot well and would therefore suggest that this is the easiest (but not easy) accessible supply. It's also worth noting that checking for incorrect wiring of the wireless charger is one of the tests in the Mazda "flat battery" TSI - dealers cutting corners with the installation??

Wow That's a job. But knowing it is OK to tap into the power wire to ECM is good news. I got a Uniden Radar unit and the Uniden wiring kit which will make the job relative easy once I can get to the ECN. Thanks so much.

 

[Covenant05]

Even that one is not switched.

For a switched power we should go through the firewall =in the fuse box under the hood. BAD option.

I'll continue to look for options.

Hi Morel, I know it's been quite a few months since this post. Have you ever found a solution this? Cheers!

 

[Morel]

Hi Morel, I know it's been quite a few months since this post. Have you ever found a solution this? Cheers!

Yes, I installed the dashcam, works perfect. See my post #53

 

[Covenant05]

Yes, I installed the dashcam, works perfect. See my post #53

Cheers mate!

 

[Tireman9]

Okay, so I ran a wire through the main wiring grommet up under the driver's footwell using an old wire coat hangar to push through (there is plenty of room around the main harness to do so safely). The purpose is to connect to my Cellink B battery, which requires a switched circuit to tap into and, as everyone knows, there aren't any available inside the passenger compartment fuse panel. That battery will sit under the driver's seat and then feed power back to my BlackVue DR750S dual channel cameras. It runs the cameras all of the time, including parking mode, and charges by drawing around 7 to 9 amps when it needs to (which is why it connects to a switched circuit or it would just completely drain the main battery fairly quickly). I've had this setup in my last car (2019 Veloster) and it worked beautifully (though that car had switched circuits inside so tapping a fuse was easy).

So here's the problem in my under-the-hood fuse panel. Using my multimeter I found just 8 switched fuses, all 15A. There's also several unused slots one could add a fuse to, but of course they're all constantly powered (like practically everything else in this car - WTF Mazda). My plan was to use an add-a-fuse with an equivalent 15A fuse on the tap side.

In ascending order they are:

F8 - Engine Control System
F10 - Engine Control System
F12 - Engine Control System
F18 - Protection of Various Circuits (tap won't fit)
F47 - Protection of Various Circuits (tap won't fit)
F49 - Instrument Cluster (tap won't fit)
F53 - Engine Control System
F54 - i-Activsense

Several of them don't work well due to physical restrictions: F18 is too close to the edge of the case and the fuses would stick out and it has a large fuse block beside it, so the tap cannot be rotated (the wire would not fit). F47 and F49 are out for the same reasons. I don't think tapping into the i-Activsense system would be a good idea, so that basically leaves me a Ford Model-T choice of "any colour I want as long as it's Engine Control System black". I guess the other (albeit more work) option is to set up a relay off the main battery and link it to one of the switched circuits, but I've not done one before and don't know how you go about weatherproofing them or finding a good place to mount it.

So...thoughts?

P.S. - here's photos of where I fed the wire through.

So would this fuse tap fit?
VALENTINE ONE Radar Detector V1 Direct Power Cord from Fuse | Etsy

 

[Phoenix]

USB Dash-cams - Not wanting to mess with the car’s existing wiring, is there an easy way to snake a dash cam cable from behind the rearview mirror to the USB port near the steering wheel? I think at some point, the USB cable will need to be visible...

 

[steve67]

USB Dash-cams - Not wanting to mess with the car’s existing wiring, is there an easy way to snake a dash cam cable from behind the rearview mirror to the USB port near the steering wheel? I think at some point, the USB cable will need to be visible...

Me and my son both have dash cams in out 3 and Cx30. Just run the cable tucked under the roof lining and under the door rubbers down under the set into the usb ,or down and under the dash and into the usb at the front near the AC controls.. the cable is hardly visible... Cutting and tapping into the harness is not worth it. IMHO. .. both usb stay live for a short time after locking the car... We have had not battery drain problems

 

[Balme]

Can you confirm this still works?? And aside from the reverse light fuse what is the other fuse you tapped into.

thanks.

I connected the ACC to F18 fuse reverse light, turn on parking mode and the dash cam did powered off.
View attachment 306

 

[metcalfe]

Me and my son both have dash cams in out 3 and Cx30. Just run the cable tucked under the roof lining and under the door rubbers down under the set into the usb ,or down and under the dash and into the usb at the front near the AC controls.. the cable is hardly visible... Cutting and tapping into the harness is not worth it. IMHO. .. both usb stay live for a short time after locking the car... We have had not battery drain problems

Which Dash Cam(s) do you and your son have?

I tried this today and my Dash Cam is getting confused when I plug it into either of the 2 usb ports. It works fine using the constant on 12v port, but goes into some sort of storage media mode using the usb ports.

Has anyone had any luck fishing a wire through to the engine compartment to hard wire a Dash Cam to a switched power source?

 

[Phoenix]

I tried this today and my Dash Cam is getting confused when I plug it into either of the 2 usb ports. It works fine using the constant on 12v port, but goes into some sort of storage media mode using the usb ports.

I got that storage media mode when I plug in my GPS or dash cam into the USB ports. I bought this:

This brand of data blocker works really well. There are other brands that don’t work at all.

 

[metcalfe]

I got that storage media mode when I plug in my GPS or dash cam into the USB ports. I bought this:
View attachment 1554

This brand of data blocker works really well. There are other brands that don’t work at all.

Hey, that's a great tip. Thank you very much!
I'll order one today.

 

[21BY34]

Is this document still available somewhere? It isn't found today anymore.

Have a look at https://sep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809172479195/BCKA-V7-440.pdf the Mazda fitting instructions for the wireless phone charger in the centre console. This is ignition switched and powered by splicing into the wiring in the foot well and would therefore suggest that this is the easiest (but not easy) accessible supply. It's also worth noting that checking for incorrect wiring of the wireless charger is one of the tests in the Mazda "flat battery" TSI - dealers cutting corners with the installation??

 

[xpstranger]

Well, the installation is all done and it turned out well.

One thing of note - since I had to pull one of the engine control system fuses to test which side was the load side (to properly install the fuse tap) by turning on ACC mode, so when I did finally start the car up, there was a check engine light and the central panel had an engine malfunction warning. Plugged in my Veepeak OBDII bluetooth module and pulled the codes and it was basically that the computer was failing to see a couple of the items it checks, so I just reset the codes through the OBDII and the issue went away and has not come back.

Thanks for picks. Very helpful.
Can you please post some pics of the fuse box, how it looks when its taped with an add-in fuse. Which side is a load side? Trying to avoid warning you encountered.
Thanks in advance.

 

[xpstranger]

Well, the installation is all done and it turned out well.

One thing of note - since I had to pull one of the engine control system fuses to test which side was the load side (to properly install the fuse tap) by turning on ACC mode, so when I did finally start the car up, there was a check engine light and the central panel had an engine malfunction warning. Plugged in my Veepeak OBDII bluetooth module and pulled the codes and it was basically that the computer was failing to see a couple of the items it checks, so I just reset the codes through the OBDII and the issue went away and has not come back.

Thanks for picks. Very helpful.
Can you please post some pics of the fuse box, how it looks when its taped with an add-in fuse. Which side is a load side? Trying to avoid warning you encountered.
Thanks in advance.

 

[ArcticHound]

Thanks for picks. Very helpful.
Can you please post some pics of the fuse box, how it looks when its taped with an add-in fuse. Which side is a load side? Trying to avoid warning you encountered.
Thanks in advance.

Here you go. I used automotive wire of the same gauge as the fuse tap and the feed line from the camera battery and ran it through the wire grommet in the firewall. The wires are properly crimped with a butt connector with a shrink seal and then some electrical tape over that. The choice of which fuse slot to use is limited by the feed wire coming off the tap.

 

[savcom]

Is this document still available somewhere? It isn't found today anymore.

The link works for me. Do you still have issues with the file @21BY34 ?